Self lining advice

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 Delbiz 04 Aug 2020

Done some self lining in the past on bolted anchors. 
 

equalised fig 8 bunny ears on the bolts, a grigri on a steel maillon straight from belay loop,  putting back up knots every so often. 

 

How do you set up a fixed line on trad anchors? Are there any extra back ups I should be thinking about. 

I’m just wondering what other options are there, and what other people recommend. 
 

 troybison 04 Aug 2020
In reply to Delbiz:

Similar to setting up an anchor that you'd be happy to abseil off - eg equalise 3 or 4 good pieces with slings or static rope to a master point, plus put a rope protector where the rope runs over the edge(s), particularly if climbing on a dynamic rope.

If there are sharp edges lower down then try to place a piece (on abseil) just below & tie the rope off (with an easily untieable knot after loading) with a bit of slack above to make sure the rope isn't rubbing up & down over the edge.

I use 2 ascenders, one at chest level & one on the belay loop as a backup & put a weight on the end of the rope so it doesn't require manually feeding through.


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