UKH

Hi, 

So I am after a windproof for climbing, for those windy trad days and probably for a walkins for winter stuff and something to replace my ageing micro fleece. 

As for a windproof I was going to go with a classic pertex jacket, like montane windshirt, however gooutdoors have the rab borealis on offer at the moment would something like that achieve the same performance for what I would like?

To replace my microfleece I was going to get a patagonia R1 as everyone seems to rave about these however I have heard people mention the M.E eclipse hooded zip-t alot and wondered what peoples experience was between these?

Thanks for everyone helps in advance 

James 

I really like the Rab borealis but it is very wind resistant rather than wind proof. I also use a montane lite speed which is great for keeping the wind out when cragging.

As for hooded grid fleece tops it's worth trying them on to see which fits you best. All perform fairly similarly and there are some bargains out there to be had.

The other option is to go for something like rab vapour rise which combines the best of both worlds. 

Thanks for reply!

If you had to choose between the two which would you keep I'd rather not buy two things which essentially achieve the same thing. The one thing borealis has going for it that it seems to be really tough. 

Thanks for the advice on the fleece. 

I actually have a vapourise jumper it's like the smock but with no hood. I really like it regulates my temperature really well. I was actually thinking of getting one of the jackets. Its just they can sometimes be too much warmth so was looking for something in between.

Have a look at the Marmot ETHER Driclime jackets, as distinct from the heavier original Marmot Driclime. If you fancy something lighter and more compact than the RAB Vapourise stuff this is it. I'm rarely without mine. 

I have the Eclipse hooded zip-t and have tried on the Pata R1 hoody. They are quite different, and very different in fit. The Eclipse is relatively tight/slim fitting and the R1 quite blousey around the waist. I am 6'7" wit ha 46" chest and 34" waist and take an XL in most things. The R1 is also a bit thicker, probably warmer than the Eclipse, I feel.

I bought one of the first-generation Borealis and they are quite good for cool windy rock days or trekking, but are not windproof enough for high mountain use, and especially not for winter. Being light, compactable and stretchy they are very good for long rock routes though.

I stay away from pertex-pile combined garments, though I've used them in the past and they are good sometimes. They are not versatile and I get too hot easily, plus I find the lining to be too binding and restrictive for actual climbing.

A simple, light fleece under a good hooded windshirt is much more comfortable and more versatile, as you can separate them. The windshirt should be chosen on fit, as brands vary greatly, how weather-resistant you need it to be, and whether you want the hood to go over a helmet (eg. Pata Houdini, Arcteryx Squamish) or under the helmet (Borealis and various other models).

Also allows you to choose the fleece and windshirt to suit climate and activity. And care for each appropriately.

For a very light midlayer (or heavyweight base layer), have a look at Decathlon's Techwinter shirt, or their Simond fleece

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/techwinter-500-zip-mens-technical-t-shirt-dark-...

https://www.simond.com/mens-mountaineering-12-zip-sweatshirt-vermilion-red-...

Tough choice! The borealis probably has the edge as it is more wearable. I often carry the lite speed and will put on at the top of a route to keep warm when belaying whereas the borealis is a bit more breathable so I could wear it comfortably all day. I just wanted to make the point that it's not fully windproof. As others have said, the combination of a windproof and fleece do make a great versatile combo for lots of activities. 

The eclipse hood is almost amazing, but it ends up doing my head in! If it’s breezy but not fully done up it slaps you in the face again and again and again and again...

I use R1s. Not baggy on me but not so hugging as the eclipse.

I have quite a few windproof jackets and the best is the Arcteryx Squamish.  It’s the most breathable and feels ok against the skin, if wearing a short sleeve base layer underneath.  Watch the sizing though.  A small fits me but I’m normally a medium in most outdoor clothing.  I’d suggest trying one on before buying.

I have a Rab Zephyr, which is similar to Borealis but with heavier material on the arms.  It’s great for climbing in but is fairly bulky.  I also have a Rab Windveil which folds up well but has a clammy feel to it, once you get a sweat on.

I have both of these, I particularly like the SH500 shirt for winter as the thumb loops keep the sleeves over your wrists thereby keeping your hands warm under the gloves. I also have one of these 

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/sprint-mens-hybrid-jacket-id_8363309.html

Personally I still find I use my Montane Prism more than anything, if it only had a chest pocket for your phone it would be perfect.

So do I; I have a number of the TW/SH500 shirts.

How do you find the Sprint? I've been tempted, but not succumbed yet. Tried it on in the Chamonix shop, as it's not usually available in store.

I have also been windbreaker plus fleece kind of a guy. But some years ago, I got a deal on Inov8 260Thermoshell. Lightweight insulating pullover that Depending on which way you have it also can block wind. 

It has pretty much made fleece (and windbreakers) obsolete for my spring & fall rock climbs and also use it as my mid layer whilst winter climbing.

still have a lightweight windbreaker for summer multibitch climbs.

Paramo fuera smocks are good and tough.

Yeh I quite like the Sprint, mostly for the face muffle which can be easily pulled up or down as required and is comfortable either way. Used it mostly in that horrible winter of 16/17 under a hard shell as it doesn't get quite as sweaty as the prism and less bulky than a fleece. The hood will go over a modern helmet, but its not a great fit and is best underneath. The main gripe I have with it is the skirt is very long, fine if used on its own with harness over the top, however it sticks out from under my hardshell and soaks up the run off. I end up tucking it in my pants which is a bit of a pain when wearing braces! Luckily I got mine when it was available in a nice fetching all blue colour, whats with that lime green nonsense! 

R1 hoody and a windshirt for me as a combo.

I own a borealis. It doesn't come out much really. It's not actually a windproof. To be honest, I'm not sure what it is. 

Thanks all for you help it is most appreciated! 

So at the moment I am leaning towards to getting a fleece and windshirt. I run quite hot and personally always thought the pertex and pile stuff might not work for me. 

The only thing that is making me want the Borealis is seemingly how tough it is as per the UKC review which I can't seem to find at the moment. Seems like it would be nice to climb in something that is windproof. I get the feeling that pertex style windshirts would rip if you climbed in them?

do you prefer the SH500 over the simond? Just curious as the SH500 is cheaper. 

I am tempted to get one of these I will mostly be dragging it over rock as well and it is significantly cheaper than the other fleeces I have listed. 

That said do you know how they compare against other?

The new prisms do have a chest pocket!

I maybe also should of mentioned that I mostly intended to use this from autumn to spring. Once summer arrives I am usually too hot wear anything else apart from a base layer and then maybe a micro fleece.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/clothing/softshell/summer_softshells-10301

I use and can recommend :

Running - Montaine Windshirt over whatever running base layer seems appropriate. For when you need something just to get out of the house but you know it'll come off in 10 mins.

Properly cold running (snow) or mountain biking - ME Ultratherm, which has been replace with something or other, I can't remember what. I love this thing, running I wear nothing under it, and as it has a zip it is easy to vent. Packs down into pocket. 

Walking midlayer or cragging belay jacket, ME Transition Jacket, much warmer that ultratherm but still packs down into pocket. Jacket so vents easily. Lots of manufactures make something similar, ie Patagonia Nano Air or Arc'teryx Atom. Much much better that a fleece.

I also have an eclipse hooded jacket (jacket rather than t for better venting) but I rarely wear it as it never gets cold enough around here, but it is rather lovely. Also checkout the ME Squall jacket which is designed with windy chilly trad climbing in mind. I'm having a bit of a sport climbing kick at the mo so I doesn't really fit with what I do.

The SH500 is a slightly lighter fabric, and a little more casually cut.

The Simond is more tailored, and marginally thicker/warmer.

Both are good length (don't ride up), and have long sleeves. The SH500 has thumb loops, which pass and peak likes.

Both are excellent, and I've been punting the Techwinter/SH500 for some time. The only thing I would change about would be to flat-lock the off-shoulder seam, but the reality is that it's placed in the dip of the collarbone, so it doesn't rub. I've described it as near-Arc'teryx quality at a bargain price.

https://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/info/search.php?forum=0&dates=1&n...

Note Decathlon's sizing: most people find they need to go up one size over their 'normal' size in other brands (their M fits me consistently well, whereas I'm more usually S).

Neither is as warm as the R1, which I find is warmer than most '100 weight' fleeces. This is either good, or not so good, depending on your needs.