Best Mournes crags for kids intro to climbing?

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 andybuckley 29 Mar 2018

I'm about to be over in NI for a few days, and thought I'd bring along a little bit of climbing kit with which to revisit the Mournes for the first time in 10 years or so. My 5 year old son has been showing signs of interest in climbing, and I was wondering if there's a "standard" good location in the Mournes for an easy intro? My criteria are that it should allow top-roping on short (say 10m) single pitches, and have reasonably positive holds within kid-reach; also obviously not too steep but doesn't need to be a slab. The walk-in doesn't have to be super-short, but shouldn't be stonkingly uphill... maybe Percy Bysshe or Lower Cove? Anything at the base of the Bearnagh slabs? Mini craggets not in the guide are very welcome!

Thanks,
Andy

 Cake 29 Mar 2018
In reply to andybuckley:

The least wet crag?

 

Sorry, I've never been.

 joeruckus 29 Mar 2018
In reply to andybuckley:

Yeah, the walk-in to Lower Cove is really pretty flat. With a 5 year-old you'll be walking at least an hour and a half if you carry him and more if you don't... First Corner is probably the best one for treating like an outdoor climbing wall – big holds all the way, lots of scope to move about left or right, but it's taller than 10m, more like double that I think. It's easy enough to walk up the gully and on top to rig a top rope, I've done it successfully with beginners before, no problem at all. Far Left Buttress right next to First Corner also has a big load of nice grippy flakes (the main line through it, 'New Decayed', has nice big clambering moves lower down and decent flakes further up). There's similar scope for toproping on top of 3rd corner, and for shorter stuff to do it part way up the gully. Take headtorches (and helmets) and go explore the cave - there's also the passage that goes through and under and comes out near the top.

Hen: shorter walk-in (20 mins for an adult) but much more of an uphill, and it's not like there's a decent path to the rock at the top – you just push off the path up over steeper moorland. Once there it's certainly easy enough to walk to get the top of most lines for rigging top-ropes. Catches the wind pretty hard up there, so worth checking the forecast!

I've seen top-roping parties at Spellack, on the Forest View Buttress. It's a great path most of the way, just uphill approaching the buttress itself.  Short routes (15m?).

Annalong Buttress is a really nice and quiet suntrap when the sun's out. Easy to rig for beginners, nice lines, lovely place to picnic, and because it's high up on the valley side you get a nice mountainous feel being there as well. It's a bit of a slog of a walk from Bloody Bridge carpark mind you – you'd have to allow a couple of hours with a small kid, so perhaps plan to break up the day and have a picnic in the abandoned mine on the way up, and take lots of snacks to keep the energy up enough for the return. Again, more than 10 metres – think they're about 25 m there.

Bernagh slabs – I think the hike's not gonna be too bad, it's a good path the whole way but it makes quite a bit of ascent over the distance, and it takes adults over an hour. I can't think that there's a straightforward way to rig a top-rope there though, I mean unless you're happy to lead up a distance and then rig an anchor and lower off it, then go back up a strip it later and perhaps downclimb. The first 10 metres of, say, Grand Central, or Hypothesis, are straightforward enough to solo/downclimb, but they're not replete with protection anyway at that stage – they follow grooves in slabs- so it's not exactly clear that they're going to be great for rigging a toprope once you've gone up a bit.

Sorry if that comes across as a bit of a wet blanket, just thinking about all your variables. I've had success at Lower Cove and Annalong, so happy to encourage you to consider them. I'm wracking my brain to think of other decent options. (I figure Percy Byshe is a bit uninspiring but ymmv).

OP andybuckley 30 Mar 2018
In reply to joeruckus:

Thanks, that's really helpful detail. I'd forgotten the name of Annalong Buttress -- lovely place -- and hadn't thought of Spellack as kid-friendly before, so those are great additions. And only climbed on 3rd Corner at Lower Cove, so the recommendation further left is very handy. You've reinforced my existing thoughts on Hen, Bernagh (and equally Lamagan), and Percy B (whose only real benefit is proximity... and another cave)! Hope the weather permits a bit of exploration in the coming days.

Andy

 Mick Ward 30 Mar 2018
In reply to joeruckus:

Superb post!

Mick

 Mick Ward 30 Mar 2018
In reply to andybuckley:

It's a tricky one. Annalong Buttress is a lovely place but a long slog up and those routes might feel really big and scary to a five year old. Also exposed to the wind (though not to an East wind).

I've a soft spot for Percy Bysshe but it's a bit uninspiring. Cove's going to feel a bit big. You could maybe put a top-rope on a lower pitch of FM on Lamagan (or rock around it). Often you can scramble off. Harder on the Bernagh slabs.

My gut feeling is Hen but only if the weather's right. The first guidebook route I ever did was East Arete (Mod) - a lovely little route. Lots of other stuff around.

A stray thought - Altnadue Quarry maybe?

Altnadue Quarry

Caveat: I've not climbed there since 1970!  Worth checking, say at the local outdoor bound place, Tollymore, about access (e.g. nesting) - or even whether it's still there! 

What would give your son a nice feel for the mountains would be a drive from Newcastle up to the Spelga Dam, down the valley past Pigeon Rock (close to the road but nothing really easy) and up Silent Valley. Then along to Dunnywater and walk up to the workings. Great views of Binnian, Lamagan, Cove, Beg, Donard, Commedagh but an easy walk up/back (especially if bad weather!) Then back along the coast to Newcastle for well-deserved ice cream. 

You could point out FM on Lamagan and agree to do it with him in a few years time. That would be a fantastic day out which he'd remember forever.

Mick

 

 joeruckus 30 Mar 2018
In reply to andybuckley:

Happy if I've helped!

Yep, the Forest View buttress at Spellack is a gently leaning rectangular wall off to the right of the main (& imposing) face, criss-crossed by some decent diagonal crack lines (think they're mostly HS or something like that). I saw a Scouts group or YMCA group on it 5 years ago with maybe 3 or 4 topropes side-by-side.

But I'd say the flattest walk-in and the best scope for adventure is to go to Lower Cove (and maybe stop at PB en route there or back if it's looking dry). Paddle about in the stream where the path crosses it, muck about with a kite on top of Lower Cove (it catches the wind on top). There are decent flat grassy places to put up a tent under the East Face. Hope you get the weather!


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