UKH

The OHM seems an interesting device for helping with belaying a much heavier climber, but if it becomes really popular, will it exaggerate the effects on the first bolt of routes as falling off anywhere and lowering every time, will tug at the first bolt in an upward direction?

In reply to Stairclimber:

What's wrong with pulling the first bolt in an upwards direction?

In reply to Stairclimber:

My guesses would be that:
1. The Ohm probably won't become all that popular. It's a neat idea but only for a fairly small proportion of climbers.
2. In any case, the forces it applies to the first bolt should be pretty minor by comparison with a normal fall onto a bolt. The direction is different but I don't think bolts are all that fussy about direction.
3. I'd imagine that the metal against metal wear of quickdraw pulling against bolt is less significant than rope running over a bolt when it's threaded. Do (non lower-off) bolts typically need replacing due to wear? I've always assumed any need for replacement is caused more by exposure to the environment than forces from use.

In reply to Stairclimber:

Can I hijack this thread briefly as I'm wondering about getting one myself. I wondered if anyone can tell me their experiences of using this outside? Being much lighter than my partner I normally have to stand directly below the first bolt - not always ideal for avoiding rockfall or for keeping him in view over bulges. Anyone found that the Ohm gives greater flexibility about belay positions? And how is it for the climber if used like this?

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Climbing Gear