UKH

Whilst EDELRID are well known for their extensive range of ropes, the extent of their belay device offerings may not be so familiar to you.

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In reply to UKC Gear:

Hs anybody tried this, my partner is nearly 4 stone lighter than me?

In reply to Jim 1003:
If you mean the Ohm then yes, I've just written a review for it - should be live within the next week or so. Here's a quick video we put together as an overview: https://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=3637.

As a bit of background to the video itself, we missed out on something of an opportunity when I was being belayed by our Assistant Developer Martin McKenna, who weighs 54kg. I weigh in/around the 78kg mark and it would suffice to say that the fall (both mine downwards and his upwards) was something of a spectacle. Unfortunately he wasn't around on the day of filming, so Alan had to step in. Whilst he still weighs 10kg less than me, and it's obvious that the device still has an impact, it's nothing compared to seeing Martin being extruded through the first bolt!

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:


Not sure it is 10kg actually, more like 3 or 4!

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:


One thing that was missing from the review was what Awesome Walls made of it?

I can't see a wall being happy either with users removing in situ draws nor doubling up with a draw and ohm in one hanger.

Did you have a conversation with them about how it would work in practice?

Would it require them to replace the first in situ draw with a permanent ohm?

In reply to Jim 1003:

Yes. I regularly use it. I'm 17-18st whereas partners are in the region of 12-13. They previously had to modify their belay style loads and would hit the first clip if I took a big lob. Now they report that they belay me like someone of their own weight and we can both relax more while climbing. It just works. Cheers

In reply to winhill:

My review hasn't actually been published yet so I'm not sure how you know that; however, somewhat psychically you are right - I didn't include this within my review!

Awesome Walls had no problem whatsoever, if anything they were all keen to see how it worked (and were impressed by the results). Whilst I'm sure the response will vary from wall to wall, I would be surprised at any establishment having an issue with the use of a device that is likely to make the belaying process safer and easier. Still, exceptions do occur. In the event of this happening a quick chat would most likely resolve the problem. If not it's back to the ballast bags!

In terms of placement, I clipped it on top of the perma-draw, which seemed to work fine. There's certainly no need to remove the perma-draw (which I think walls would take an exception to) as there's plenty of space within the bolt for both.

Hope that answers your questions.