UKH

I'm looking at getting a new belay jacket and am going for a synthetic one. Coldest it will be used for is winter alpine (and that's a push, will be more alpine summer/scottish winter in general). Main requirements are the usual helmet that will go over a hood, reasonably tough so it can be worn as an outer layer and good warmth to weight ratio.

I'm not quite sure what weight of insulation I should be looking for though. 100g/m seems like a fairly good level, warm but not too carzy, which seems to leave me with the options of Rab Photon X, ME Fitzroy, Montane Flux (claims it's hood will go over a helmet, but having tried it on I'm not convinved). There's then a few others at the 80g/m such as BD Stance and ME Prophet (which due to the weather resistance sounds like a pretty good general climbing emergency layer).

Unfortunately, I assume because of the time of year, these all seem a bit hard to come by, especially in the brighter colours that I prefer.

So, does anyone have thoughts on what weight of insulation strikes a good balance in a belay jacket, as well as thoughts on those that've been mentioned or any other stand out alternatives?

Thanks

In reply to Dheorl:

Round these parts you'll consistently hear recommendations for ME Fitzroy and Rab Photon X (Alpine Generator as was). All the others are left field choices (for UKC) although adequate, no doubt. Be warned that anything under 100g/m fill is going to leave you wishing you'd gone burlier when the weather kicks in and your partner's stuck for an hour on the crux pitch.

Mind you, I have 2 belay jackets, one at 60g/m and another at 133g/m and I try to pick the one that suits route, conditions and the proficiency of my partner. For an all rounder 100g/m hits the spot.

In reply to Dheorl:

It's also worth looking at Arcteryx. The Atom SV is good as a belay jacket, around the same warmth as the others. Sport Pursuit have a half price Arcteryx sample sale at the moment that has various options around the sort of warmth you seem to be after, for between £80 and £110.

In reply to 1philjones1:

I did consider Arc'teryx but couldn't find the atom SV on their site any more/in stores and wasn't sure if it was still made or just everywhere had run out (which seems to be the case with many of these jackets atm)

In reply to BnB:

Thanks for the info. I have been considering one a slightly heavier weight but the ones I've seen seem to suddenly jump up to 200g/m. May I ask which jacket your heavier weight one is?

In reply to Dheorl:

It's a North Face Makalu. Definitely that bit warmer and more protective, but not a lot heavier than the usual suspects. No idea whether an equivalent still exists.

In reply to Dheorl:

They've got various different versions of the Atom on Sport Pursuit at the moment

In reply to Dheorl:

I have a Rab Alpine Generator so 100 gsm body (but double thickness up front) and 60 gsm arms. That seems like a perfect weight for me for winter stuff. Not always the warmest but pretty light. If I need a warmer jacket I'm either in down territory (usually overseas or in proper dry cold) or I'll layer it with a lighter puffy layer, currently a Berghaus hypertherm hoody.
The combo is about the weight of a heavyweight belay jacket and is much more versatile.
I've generally found it warm enough for Scotland, Norway and Wales but with the caveat that I've not been below about -7 or so in it.
I find carefully swapping gloves, hats and hoods has a huge role to play.
I do like the look of the Berghaus belay jacket at the mo as it's currently £120 ish at Cotswolds but I just can't justify it.