Can you and should you climb in the Himalayas without Agencies?

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 French Erick 08 Sep 2016
Despite having climbed for the best part of quarter of a century, I have never done much alpinism and never been on an expedition in my life. I rarely, if at all, read literature on expeditions.

So to a novice eye,
you cannot do a completely self supported ascent of a 7,000/8,000m peak due:
1) logistics- too far, too long to do it alone.
2) bureaucracy- visas/ paperwork/redtape.

you should not try to do it alone due:
1) ethical issues and not supporting the local communities
2) the huge likelihood to come to some harm because of the titanesque efforts required.

Have I got this right? I would like to get some insight from those in the know (however easy the route to a summit they used). Second degree knowledge welcome. I won't be able to stop conjecture and extrapolation from some but I rather limit them
 DanielJ 08 Sep 2016
In reply to French Erick:
Disclaimer: I'm not really in the know so take it for what's it worth

If you go for 7000m, hell yeah! Check the forums, for example
http://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/t.php?t=617273&v=1#x8062576

Google bonanza will most likely get you to some blog of free-spirited expeditions?

8000+ unsupported solo for first expedition ever seems somewhat American, shoot for the stars kind of style, but maybe that's just me being pessimist. I guess you're after climbing routes and not the glorified high altitude trekking on normal routes? Sounds way more reasonable to go for a climbing route on a 7000+ for a first solo?

8000m exp. isn't that easy to do in stealth-under the radar mode, unless off season or serious a la Cho Oyo north face etc. I believe that on most 8k+ base camps someone check your permits.
Then on to the logistics, if you by unsupported mean all the way without porters I can't imagine the amount you need to carry just to get to the base camp.

The last 2 points I guess it's really personal. My 2p

1. Your cash is sorely needed by the people on the ground. If you skip permits spend as much as you can in the mountains.
2. Risk-reward analyse, is it worth it? (Huge likelihood to harm seems like a overstatement?)

Read some soloists books. Messner, maybe G. Kropps (modern example, but take it with a pinch of salt)
Must be something written in the solo 8000m+ category in this millennium?
Post edited at 21:37
OP French Erick 08 Sep 2016
In reply to DanielJ:

I don't think I'd ever do it... Far too soft for this type of things and couldn't afford it. Just pondering the whole process and a bit curious. Cheers though.

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