UKH

Hi im looking to buy a new pair of rockshoes,i mostly climb limestone around the dales up to mild severeish and granite in the alps,reccomendations please.

In reply to blackcat:

Five Ten Guide Tennies.

Although my recently acquired Five Ten Camp Fours are already falling apart so maybe Five ten are crap now.

In reply to The Pylon King:

Five ten Spires - the most comfortable rock shoes ever (for lower grade climbing.)

In reply to The Pylon King:


Interesting that you say that about you Camp Fours. I have bought C4s for years now (the fit is [was] good for me and they have been good value in the past), and due to the amount of time I need to wear them I have several pairs on the go at once. I have six pairs on the go at the moment. Three pair are in the country I am in at the moment and another three are in another country. I usually get 9 to 12 months out of each pair. Anyway about nine months ago I bought a pair and they were distinctly different from the previous pairs that I have bought; in looks and fit. Anyway, after two VFs and a day guiding the rubber sole was coming away from upper in several places. I asked the shop to replace them and they did. The new pair have fared a bit better, but they are also coming apart, and the fit seems to have changed as well, they gave me blisters on the top of my toes (could not be arsed to contact the shop again). All in all it looks like they did a redesign, or changed the supplier and they are now crap (for me at least). I have decided that I will not buy them anymore and the next pair I buy will be from a different manufacturer. I did email Five Ten about them, but had no reply (bad customer support).

Anyone else have a problem, or just me and the pylon king?

In reply to blackcat:

Find the pair that most look like a pair of slippers and buy them in a size that makes them feel like a pair of slippers. Not only will you be able to wear them all day long, but as they will look decidedly unfashionable you'll have plenty of cash left over. I bought some Climb X Dyno Velcro Climbing Shoes when they were on offer at Go Outdoors a while back, and found myself able to edge quite nicely on an E1 quarried grit slab the other day. Even now, they look like a reasonable buy. Whether they'll last a long time though is hard to tell as I don't get out much, but hey if they didn't cost that much in the first place, you've not lost much if they fall to bits in six months time.

In reply to blackcat:

A snug fitting pair of slip lasted shoes, so you can edge on the Limstone and smear a bit on the Granite.

In reply to Removed User:
I had a pair of c4's and they wore out very quickly, my guide tennies are still going strong though.

In reply to blackcat: Thanks for the replies,il look into the guide tennies.My last pair were scarpa vantage,in fact i bought two pairs but one pair were too tight but couldnt take them back as id took them to the crag,cant seem to get them no more.

In reply to blackcat:

I would recommend a pair of shoes that fit you. Go to a good climbing shop, tell them what you have just told us, and try on a load until you find a pair that fit will, are comfortable and are within the budget you are looking to spend. If you are climbing easier climbs and alpine stuff, go for comfort. Consider wearing socks (those that do know it makes sense!) and don't bow to the eejits who insist that the only right pair of shoes is 2 sizes too small.

In reply to ByEek:

>....... Go to a good climbing shop, tell them what you have just told us, and try on a load until you find a pair that fit will, are comfortable and are within the budget you are looking to spend.......

Bought some new shoes (Boreal Silex) in Outside just the other day. The first pair of size 42 were unwearable, the next size up were floppy but the guy in the shop went and got another apparently identical pair of 42 and they fitted just fine. Moral take your time and try on lots of different pairs.

In reply to blackcat:

Five ten huecos - just got some. Slippers!

In reply to sea_lene:

I have just stopped buying 5:10 approach shies as they just dont last. My last pair of Camp 4's didnt last 3 months. glue seams coming away. Sole delaminating

In reply to john morrissey:


3 months, you were lucky, I got three days.