UKH

I'm after any routes (with said move safe), in the South ideally, cheats training tips, and even suitable climbing walls.

I want to get good at bunched rockovers on plumb vertical ground. I'm thinking of one on OKish small hand holds and a big foothold about a foot/ eighteen inches below that. If your route has a wall continuing below it I will probably be able to place my trailing foot higher on a smear and simply step on the biggie, or at least it will get in the way, so it really has to be on the lip of a roof for what I'm after.

No I'm not going to do A Little Particular thankyou, that one's all yours. And recommending Fornicator is no good either as that's what I'm after.

In reply to Paz:
Just get burley n pull up high before putting a foot on (though obviously i have no idea if this works on fornicator having not been on it).. did the trick on a similar-ish sounding move on mossatrocity (final move getting LF on) how is it if you've now been on it or is this just beta down the (ally)grapevine?

In reply to Paz:

How about these at Portland?

http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=3545

http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=3737

I'm dissappointed that noone's pointed me towards the direct start of Braille Trail. I'm looking in to getting a transplant for the hips of a nineteen year old and the bones of a yoga master as I type.

In reply to abarro81:

No, I've just been on it. I'd have thought I shouldn't hae been able to touch it really, given it's grades history. His beta was good but just for the hand sequence - I had to work out my own feet.

I can salute your advice - just get stronger -but with me that takes a long time. Anyway I cna get my heel on and rock on to it, it's the standing up I can't do. If I dogged it to a further bolt then I might have a clue what I was going for and coudl just lay one on.

In reply to Richard Horn:

Cheers, good knowledge. Nice to see that both were first done by tall chaps too so I've got no excuses there. Do both moves really fit the bill?

In reply to Paz: The word horific isn't strong enough, not actually in the south, but i thought it was worthy of a mention.

http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/photo.html?id=caley__no_pebble_wall

In reply to Paz:
Which move did you not suss?
Don't do it the way that Vicker's is doing it in the guide, the funny toe hook thing out left - swap it into a toe on, and rock onto it, then there's a small toe hold hidden by the groove for your right foot when you look down. Move after is reachy (peachy!) on a dusty smear, then shake out and cruise the 7b+ to the top. v7 in total for the roof section? Bottom end F8a.... (had to be said)
The fall is entertaining.
Good luck!

In reply to ally smith:

It was just getting stood up on the lip that I didn't suss. I was planning on reaching a slight crack to left, but in the event it looked miles away. I did do(g) it different to Vickers in the photo - after using a left toe hook to get the other lip hold I put it back on that ramp thing under the roof and went to the shit one on the right first off the good one on the lip off an awesome egyptian off a boss (well I am weak, my knee hurt this morning) then had to change the right to front on, straight arm and try and just hang and hopefully slap the good left hand crimp. Right foot then matchs left then left heel goes on and the gurning starts. I linked from the wall to the lip and starting to get the egyptian, and from the lip with the egpytian in to starting/doing the rock over.

The move reminded me a bit of El Chocco, so it should only require about 300 million redpoints .

Where exactly's this toe hook out left? Like miles out left on the lip or in the back of the roof on a great undercut that you don't use? It sounds like I needed my right foot on to stand up- is the groove the big left hand foot hold on the lip, or the gastonny thing out right? And what do you reckon Vickers' feet are on, and why the hell is he carrying wires?

In reply to Paz:

Just an idea if it's the standing up that's the problem, work on leg strength. 1 leg squats really do help to improve rockovers, I've found a particular route at my local wall a lot easier after spending a few weeks working on 1 leg squats.

Rob

In reply to Rob Laird: Ta, I don't normally think I'm lacking in the leg department, but it wouldn't hurt to practise that specific movement. It's more the standing up holding pingy crimps just above your knees.

In reply to Paz:
It's a weird toe scum thing out on the lip to the left - your hips might not bend in the right way to get out to it. Can't remember which hand goes where, but you get the shit higher crimp first, straight arm, swap toe scum to toe to rock onto, then get the better one with the other hand.
Thankfully, you should get more redpoints quicker, than El Chocco, given that the bottom is only F6a or so.
He's got wire co's it was e8 6c before, the only good bolt was the one on the lip, the rest were the old aid bolts until you koined the 7b+. The first section of the roof was on the rusty pegs that are still in-situ.
I've 3porjects on that wall, and lots more at Cheddar in general (even more than Malham!) so i'll be keen for a return trip at some point.

In reply to Paz:
If you don't mind a bit of bouldering try "death jug mantle" at smallcombe. Despite the name it's a rockover really and is very safe (2ft from floor. The guide says that it's not done justice by the grading system though, so be warned!

Wayne

In reply to Paz: Why not try putting a tall table beneath a fingerboard or something like that, to reconstruct the move in the comfort of your own home. Not that it sounds very comfortable... Alternatively set a route like that at the wall?
Sam

In reply to Sam L:

He has a fear of walls. Or a severe dislike, or both.

In reply to RedFox: Yeah, I'm scared of getting burnt off by twelve year olds. That and I'm lazy.


Cheers Ally. The sofa's there for you anytime.

Sam - Yeah I've been there and even tried it I think. If |I go back I'll check it

In reply to ally smith: You've got Savage's, a 7b+ and what?

I think I just need to get back on it then. I need to get the better crimp before putting my foot on to rock over or my foot's going where my hand is and it becomes a horrendous bunched rockover instead of merely a horrific one. Maybe I just need my toe on instead of my heel.

Did you notice that if you get the good crimp first with your right then the old aid bolt nearly slits your wrist?

In reply to Paz:

What about the direct start of Braille Trail?

In reply to James Jackson:

As soon as the Yoga master and nineteen year old's corpses become available the flexibility transplant will go ahead.

In reply to Paz:

You could try stretching? Might be cheaper/less painful?

In reply to Paz:

I hear there are worthless 19 year olds up north who may donate a hip in exchange for drugs.

In reply to James Jackson:

My relatives aren't that desperate while they can still mug your grandma.

In reply to Paz:

She's dead, so they'd have to dig a bit.

In reply to James Jackson:

t's probably easier to nick the lead off the church roof.

In reply to Paz:

You get more money for that too.