UKH

Trying to get an opinion whom was the best himalayan mountaineer ever?

Also any good sites with details on these climbers.

In reply to verest:

As messner's still alive he gets my vote.

A

In reply to verest:

Jerzy Kukuczka

In reply to Alan:
When/How did JK die ?

Messner was the first to do the 14, and did most of them in fine style as well - lots of firsts. I would say his solo of Everest in 1980 was probably the most impressive.

JK also did them all in fine style, but was a few years behind, so my vote goes to RM

In reply to Alan:

"My vertical world" was that the title?

Really enjoyed it!

In reply to Chris the Tall:

http://www.jerberyd.com/climbing/climbers/kukuczka/

In reply to Chris the Tall:

JK died 1989 south face lhotse at 8,200m. Took russians 12 men in 1992 for first ascent.

jk success: Kangchenjunga, annapurna, dhaulagiri, cho oyu all first winter ascents. Makalu solo new route. Everest, Gasherbrum I an II, Nanga Parbet (Rupal face direct only messner has climbed also direct), K2 (S.face direct),mansalu, shisha pangma (fist ski descent 8,000), broad peak(first traverse), cho oyu (his route never repeated) all climbs new routes (firsts). Messner never achieved this! Time for 14 8,000 eight yrs messner 15 years. 9 months behind messner.

Beats Messner hands down.

In reply to verest:

Impossible to say.

I think that seriously hardcore generation of Polish climbers may have been pushing it a bit too hard, as so many died. Check out Wanda Rutkiewicz’s achievements before she died too.

In reply to verest:

Messner has a gaye beards

In reply to verest:

Slightly OT, but has anyone been to any of the Messner museums in the South Tirol?

We went to the one in the pass up from the Cadore valley as you head south from Cortina and were somewhat disappointed. Basically just a collection of paintings and sketches through the ages, and very little on the ascent of K2 (which given the anniversary they were celeberating in Cortina this year, we were expecting), or Messner himself for that matter.

There's supposedly about another half-dozen dotted around, just wondered if they were worth visiting if I'm ever passing again?

In reply to verest:

Both seemed pretty nails to me.

I liked Jerzy's doing alot of them in winter and new routes etc - so he just shades it for me. Awesome autobiography.

In reply to verest:
Can you define best in these cases? All incredibly skilled and dedicated, somehow seems to trivialise the acheivements if you start rating one against the other. Just my opinion, obviously.

In reply to verest:

Messner he ahs a good beared.

And talkks to his dead brother

In reply to verest:

I thoroughly recommend Kukuczka's "My Vertiacal World" to anyone who hasn't read it. Don't expect a literary master piece though. He doesn't beat around the bush: one short chapter per 8000er. He really gives the impression of a driven man who was prepared to push the boat out.

As for who is the best, I don't think it matters.

JW