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Managing onset of elbow and wrist issues

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 gravity.time 24 Apr 2023

Hi, I started indoor bouldering 2 months ago. 

After my 2nd session I realized the importance of warming, exercises, listening to my body and not overloading myself but I guess I'm not doing enough. I do plan on doing more exercises but now I need to deal with some preliminary issues, hopefully before they become serious.

Currently I feel like I'm developing some wrist issues, I googled symptoms and found TFCC and other issues but if I have an issue it's only the onset. I have a very slight discomfort some times. After a session I had some more serious pains when doing a push up. My right wrist started clicking when I rotate it. The day after I don't feel pain, only the clicking. I haven't found much about how to treat early onset of wrist problems and how to know if/when you can start some exercises and then climb again. What rest / exercise routine would you recommend?

I might also have an onset of Golfers elbow. I'm starting to feel some elbow pain during a session and then I take ~ an hour to stretch and then it passes and doesn't bother me anymore.

For golfers elbow I found exercises and stretches I can do. So I'm asking more specifically about wrist issues.

Thanks.

In reply to gravity.time:

Sounds like you need to see a good physio

 Neil Morrison 24 Apr 2023
In reply to gravity.time... this book https://www.processphysiotherapy.co.uk/the-self-rehabbed-climber Great advice on wrist, elbows and a whole lot more.

OP gravity.time 24 Apr 2023
In reply to Wide_Mouth_Frog:

From what I read it's not time to see a physio. I barely have any pain or discomfort. No pain is really persistent still. I think I'm catching issues at the very early stages and I just need to rest and then exercise enough before climbing. The reason I'm asking here is because while I found info on how to treat golfers elbow. I haven't found much info about mild, early stages of wrist issues. All info is about advanced stages where you have daily pain and other symptoms.

 midgen 24 Apr 2023

If you've only been bouldering two months, then just take it easy. It takes time for your body to get used to the strains you're placing on it. 

It's likely because your fingers and forearm connective tissue (tendons/muscles) are weak, that you're just hanging on your joints (wrist) which is going to a bad idea. 

 Inhambane 24 Apr 2023
In reply to gravity.time:

Reduced your intensity (grade) and experiment with volume (# of routes) so you can climb with out aggravating it. If you find a triggering move or position avoid untill better. If you find a healing move then do more but slowly. 

 pasbury 24 Apr 2023
In reply to gravity.time:

Some exercises and advice here: https://trainingforclimbing.com/treating-climbers-elbow-medial-epicondyliti...(tennis,weeks%20of%20strength%2Dtraining%20exercise.

I found reverse wrist curls helped with my elbow pain.


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