Untying and retrying during outdoor sport climb?

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Fbno 15 Nov 2019

I haven't climbed outdoors in a couple of years so my knowledge is a little stale. Bare with me...

I'm 100%.. possibly 80% sure I remember a scenario where I've had to untie and retie (after of course, clipping in with my... sling?) to lower myself down during an outdoor, sport climbing lead run.

I honestly can't find any research that supports this, or any reason I'd need to.. perhaps if there are no lower-off anchors in place?

I distinctly remember untying the figure of 8 knott and retying with a standard overhand/double overhand knot with a carabiner in the hoop. Which may have attached to my harness...

This is a bit of a weird post bit it's really bugging me...

Does anyone know of ANY scenarios where you use an overhand instead of a figure of 8?
Thanksss

 gravy 15 Nov 2019
In reply to Fbno:

When joining two ropes before abseiling

When tying a bight on a rope for various uses including building anchors and attaching a third person onto a rope for various purposes

7
 gethin_allen 15 Nov 2019
In reply to Fbno:

This probably isn't the best place for learning such crucial info but the BMC has some good info here

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/how-to-lower-off-from-a-sport-climb

 Martin Bennett 15 Nov 2019
In reply to Fbno:

I think what you might recall is standard practice at the top of a single pitch bolted route where the lower-off must be threaded. I believe the usual procedure is to clip in with a cow's tail or sling or quickdraw then take up some slack in the rope and tie a figure of 8 on the bight which is clipped with a carabiner to your harness tie-in loop. Then, and only then, do you untie your original tie in loop and are ready to be lowered off.  You could use an overhand instead of fig 8 but the latter is generally easier to untie after loading. Does that sound like what you (not quite 100%!) remember doing?

 maxsmith 15 Nov 2019
In reply to Martin Bennett: 

"then take up some slack in the rope and tie a figure of 8 on the bight which is clipped with a carabiner to your harness tie-in loop."

Not trying to be narky but from a safety point of view it might be worth editing to make it clear the bight needs to be threaded through the lower off before being attached to the harness. I know what you mean but post (which will be online for ever!) may confuse a beginner. 

To OP as above the BMC has a great guide or seek competent training.

 JLS 15 Nov 2019
In reply to Fbno:

There two methods show on the BMC video.

youtube.com/watch?v=jgVrpjcTlSo&

I think you are remembering the second.

Typically, I would use the first method. It's quickest and arguably safest as you never untie (edit until you're ready to lower. However it may be better to use the second in some situstions. i.e. If it's a very short route it may be less than ideal to be pulling out all the slack required leaving little redundancy between you and the ground. Also if you are at a crag with short routes you may only have a short rope. As method one uses more rope it could see you lowered off the end off the rope. I've witnessed this particular accident.

The first method involves lowering on a single crab, which if you happend not to have screwed up the gate, is obviously not as secure as a retied fig8 knot.

In the video of the second method, I'd have preferred to see the lead rope clipped at the anchor though this can sometimes get in the way a bit while rethreading at some anchors. If you haven't done it a lot, with method 2 it easy to mis-judge how much rope you'll need to re-tie the fig8 knot which is a hasle and delay to sort out.

Post edited at 11:10
In reply to Fbno:

Assuming you are just tying on to lower down there isn't any reason why you can't use an overhang on the bight rather than a figure of 8. A figure of eight should be a bit easier to undo.

Fbno 15 Nov 2019
In reply to Martin Bennett:

Yessss! Thank you very much sir. This has been bugging me for so long..

I'm not intending to go rock climbing any time soon so will ensure to re-learn how is done prior to doing so.

But generally terminology has been lost over the years so it was almost impossible to search for it.

My mind is at rest...

 Martin Bennett 15 Nov 2019
In reply to maxsmith:

Dead on. Thanks.

 Martin Bennett 15 Nov 2019
In reply to Fbno:

Thanks but be sure to see maxsmith's post also - he clarifies  the vital threading of the bight through the anchor(s).

 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 15 Nov 2019
In reply to Fbno:

What I do - usual caveats apply:

https://vimeo.com/manage/340412797/general

Chris

 Rog Wilko 15 Nov 2019
In reply to Fbno:

Bare with me...

Are you a naturist?  😉

 Cusco 15 Nov 2019
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Oh FF(KK)S  

 Luke90 15 Nov 2019
In reply to JLS:

> However it may be better to use the second in some situstions. i.e. If it's a very short route it may be less than ideal to be pulling out all the slack required leaving little redundancy between you and the ground.

Another reason to be familiar with the second method is that it can be a bit of a squeeze getting a bight of rope through some anchors where a single thread is much easier.

 JLS 15 Nov 2019
In reply to Luke90:

Indeed. Forgot about that.

 Aly 15 Nov 2019
In reply to Luke90:

This.

Indeed at some anchors it is impossible to use the bight method so it is important to know how to use the second method.


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