UKH

Hi, all. Where could you recommend on such a windy day as this? It's the same as yesterday and Burbage and Stanage were just insanely windy. Is there anywhere that comes to mind with a nice bunch of sub-E routes in some shelter? Bonus points for quality of anchors at the top. "Quality" of the routes less important, we're new enough for most things to be fun.

Thanks!

Burbage South was delightfully sheltered yesterday, barely a breathe of wind at the base and only the odd gust at the top. The direction has shifted slightly more westerly though so it's not likely to be as pleasant today but somewhere east or north facing, or very low in a valley. I reckon  Den Lane Quarry would be perfect.. there's even some bolted lower offs at the top of routes for grit novelty!

Sheltered spots like Yarncliffe Quarry will be at a premium but if you are heading south out of the Peak, consider saving your day by visiting Pleasley Vale near Mansfield, Just 10 mins from M1 junction 29 and a real sun trap for a few hours of top roping and bouldering. The list of routes to do in the guidebook doesn't really honestly give a true impression, but there are at least half a dozen really worthwhile lines and the bouldering is excellent. 

I wouldn't recommend it if you have other options, but you may not and it just might save your day.

Head towards Mansfield from J29 and after 5 mins turn towards Shirebrook at the roundabout, then IMMEDIATELY turn right to follow a lane through an old mill estate. You may have to park and walk 15 mins, if  the security barrier is closed, but other wise follow the road through the old Viyella Mill until a short 100m lane leads left after a right hand bend ,to parking by an old church on the right bank of the river.. The crag appears as soon as you follow the path into the fields by the side of the river, The top of the crag has a path accessed from either end.

Two main sectors. The first offers a great E1 passing a steep block, a VS corner reached from the right, an airy VD arete and a brilliant M wall/slab on jugs. 100m further right a tower has a good line at HVS. The low level traverse is the crag classic about 3 inches off the ground! Harder bouldering further right.

It's years since I went there but the spot is a gem. Easier (but lots more complicated) road access is possible via the Mansfield direction.

Rivelin Edge is often a good bet on a windy day, but perhaps not this one.  (I suspect it might be a bit too popular just now.)

Turningstone Edge could be a good shout, if the rhododendrons haven't eaten it while we were all staying home.  Check the RAD for new information about parking though, access is a bit delicate and the latest guidebook is now out of date about the approach.
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/View.aspx?id=5491

Pleasley is a terrible choice. Issues with locals and very limited parking.

Wharncliffe is the best peak area venue I know: a big crag, super fast drying, easy access from M1, out of the peak NP, no parking issues reported as yet (despite being very popular with walkers), facing the sun from late morning (the virus is said to no longer an issue in direct sunlight in under an hour). It was good in the wind yesterday... it can get a bit warm at the Deepcar end  in May with no wind.

In reply to Adam Peel:

With the amount off dogging on cams visible on Peak venues  I suspect those Pleasley blocks won't last long if it's discovered by the masses. It's a place that needs care with lead protection and much more of an old school leader should not fall attitude.

Very good points re: crowding, have deleted my post, it was altogether too positive! Probably the coffee and withdrawal symptoms from climbing.

And yes good point; When I said I'd not knocked a block off I meant I've never felt confident enough in the stacked rocks to push hard enough to take a lob

Lot of love for the place though.

Ideal crags for these windy conditions are Den Lane in Uppermill and Aldery Cliff near Buxton. Both are east facing and have steep hillsides above which offer great protection from the wind.

I went to Den Lane yesterday and despite being buffeted around driving there the wind at the crag was never more than a slight breeze.

Both crags have a good selection of VS and HVS routes plus a few easier things. The walk ins are as short as you could wish for, Den Lane 3 mins, Aldery 30 seconds!

I'd go either down a limestone dale (Tissington spires / Wildcat) or possibly look for tree cover - Gardoms maybe

Maybe a bit late now - but you really need east facing crags -e.g  Turningstone Edge as has been mentioned. For sport climbing Darkness walls at Intake will be fine.

Youll get battered on Wildcat today (this was suggested by someone).

Steve

Majorca

I don't think  Turningstone Edge is a great bet for a beginner. Not a huge number of routes and definitely not many easier ones. The top outs are variable as well from what I remember.

Nor do I, but the OP was asking for "a nice bunch of sub-E routes" and ideally good anchors at the top of the crag.  That doesn't really say beginner to me, and Turningstone ticks both boxes I think.

I would say the crag aspect is of prime importance today - there are few E facing crags in the peak and Turningstone is pretty good for not complete beginners  - quiet a lot of good routes S - HVS for example.

But to the OP - note the access and parking details  

New Mills or Lawrencefield would work. Or Anglezarke if it's not too far. 

Fair enough, I guess I just focused on the "we're new enough for most things to be fun." bit of the OP.

It is very windy out today so I guess it is more likely to be protected than virtually any other grit crag I can think of. Some of the quarries might be OK though.

Thought that post was going in a different direction for a moment.

On cams as well, do they have no shame? 😆

Didn't see this thread this morning but headed to Pleasley Vale and climbed in a T-shirt all afternoon, 2 showers blew over in a couple of minutes but everything stayed bone dry, seemed much wetter driving home. Was first visit in 8 years, had forgotten how good the rock is on many of the delightful good quality easy climbs. Parking is limited but wasn't a problem and there are other options available even if it involves a bit longer walk. 

Sadly youths are drinking and littering the place. We removed 9 bags of rubbish from around the left hand end of the crag so if anyone is thinking of heading there take a few bags!

I had to read it several times too!

So KatieP2 where did you get to ?