UKH

Has anyone done this one recently? I tried with a buddy last year but sadly couldn't find the start of the climb. We followed the red dots which eventually led to the "face sud" rather than the "Pilier sud" as I gather the "sign on a tree" 20 mins into the approach washed away in a storm some years ago and despite much trekking up and down the forest we couldn't find the path off right.

If anyone has any up-to-date information on the approach, please get in touch as I'd like to give it another go at the end of this month.

Cheers

Matt

Not up to date as such. But reading my guide says start only 10 mins away from where signpost used to be. And is the foot of the mountain ie lowest point. Helpful clues i hope. My guide, the jd achard book of 2002, has very clear topo and photo and was usually accurate when we were there. 

it is a few years since i was there but the best source of information is the local (Foix ) club alpin office and in particular Gerald Pouliquen.   They have a free topo website which gives a lot of info but for the best guidance try to e mail or speak to GG as he is locally known.

I have a feeling that it is now quite common to ab in from the summit (much easier approach and descent when you have finished ) but i could be confusing it with some of the other routes on this face

Ab in, yr kidding, bloody great long ridge then best part of 20 abs all down slabs. No way. 😊

As Ian says, I'd be extremely surprised if anyone abbed from the summit for Pilier Sud or any of the >500m routes

As far as I know the ab from the summit is used to access routes like L'Odyssée (brilliant route), L'Illiade & Ulysse

The ab is great except when you get your ropes jammed on the 3rd one and you realise you have only 14 quickdraws, no trad gear and no phone...

Thanks both. 

10 mins from the original sign post the start might have been but when all the trees and ledges looks similar, it's hard to know which 10 min walk right you need to take; it's a big mountain!

Any links to the Foix alpine office or contact details for Gerald Pouliquen? We're planning to stay in Ax-Les-Thermes as it's closer to Orlu. 

https://cafma.ffcam.fr is the club alpin Foix site where you can find the topos. contact details on their home page. To the other posts - yes i was thinking of l'illiade and those other routes for the ab in.  you are correct for pillier sud you would not ab in.   My apologies 

A few years back we went to find the start planning to come back another day but never got the weather window. I took note of the GPS coordinates. 

The coordinates I have for the foot of the climb,  i.e. next to the first bolt are:

31N 412091E 4726362N

Or

42.68476°N 1.92694°E

I've also got a gpx track of our flounder through the forest from the parking area. Drop me a message and I can send you that should it be any use. 

Cheers

Fiona