UKH

/ Climbing in Montenegro

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MischaHY - on 07 Jan 2019

Anyone been? Any advice on rock quality or potential for new route development? 

I stumbled across this link: http://www.outdoorukraine.com/content/view/976/272/lang,en and those mountains look like they've got some pretty serious faces on them. 

Would be great to hear from anyone with experience! 

Red Rover - on 07 Jan 2019
In reply to MischaHY:

I've spent a lot of time in the Durmitor mountains (exploring new caves) and I think quite a bit has been climbed because there are a lot of keen mountaineers in the former Jugoslavian countries. I dont think its that well documented though so maybe you will be new routing maybe you won't ,much like climbing in Norway.

I only really know the Durmitor mountains but they are very good, lots of things like this https://www.ukhillwalking.com/images/dbpage.php?id=226787

 

and this which I think goes at VS ish but it could be a sandbag

 

https://www.ukhillwalking.com/images/dbpage.php?id=225282

 

Enjoy!  There is a huge underground river system under the Durmitor mountains and I spent a bit of time exploring it (York Uni may have been the first to discover it, after we found a cave entrance and abbed down 650 meters, but we're not sure if another cave discovered by Belgrade Uni goes to the same river or not).


Watch out for the local moonshine its lethal! You might find a kind of apricot brandy which is nicer than the plum version.

 

Red Rover - on 07 Jan 2019
In reply to MischaHY:

PS rock quality really varies, from very chossy to OK but mainly a bit loose choss. It will be adventerous.

Red Rover - on 07 Jan 2019
In reply to MischaHY:

Belgrade University Alpine Climbing and Caving Club (ASAK when translated into Serbian) will know a lot about the area and are a friendly lot, maybe they'll help you out. They dont check emails much so if they dont reply send me a PM.

 

http://www.asak.org.rs/index_e.php

Post edited at 19:28
Dave - on 07 Jan 2019
In reply to MischaHY:

I've been ski touring in the Prokletje mountains in Montenegro and Albania and thought the climbing potential looked amazing. Difficult to tell about the rock quality but there was a lot of it!  No hard information I'm afraid but it was a beautiful place and would be a big adventure. https://www.ukhillwalking.com/images/dbpage.php?id=96804

 

 

Andy Manthorpe on 08 Jan 2019
In reply to MischaHY:

I haven't been there but flew over the area in the autumn. The Dinaric Alps look interesting.

I found a site on a long distance path, which has a basic map feature which may be useful to you.  It is scrollable to show contours and paths, but doesn't show cliffs.

https://trail.viadinarica.com/en/toptipps/#view=map&zc=14,19.84878,42.74125

Andy

Moondancer - on 08 Jan 2019
In reply to MischaHY:

There is a small backpackers hostel in Zabljak, at the foot of the Durmitor mountains. The guy who runs it is an outdoor enthusiast and knows the area well, he had lots of good hiking suggestions when I was there. Don't know if he is a climber, but he might be able to point you towards some locals who know more about the climbing in the area. Email is hikersden@live.com. 

MischaHY - on 09 Jan 2019
In reply to MischaHY:

Cheers guys, I really appreciate the information! I'll do some more digging based on this... Sounds interesting. 


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