UKH

Hello everyone!

During the last months, my right hand becomes easily tired while climbing (very quickly and a lot easier than my left hand). While hanging on a good hold with my right hand, for resting or for clipping, I get an intense wrist pain. I cannot stand a right-hand rest while I have no problem with a left-hand rest. I can even feel pain when flaking rope.

Besides climbing, I used to workout a bit and use PC many hours.

I visited an orthopaedic who suggested long-time rest, ice and also gave me some anti-inflammatory drugs. He said I have tendonitis. He also told me that this is a condition that maybe I have to live with and to be used to. Or I could stop climbing. This really scared me.

Has anyone had such a problem? What did you do? Did you stop climbing, working out etc? For how long? Did any exercises help? Any food? Any other practices?

Thank you!

I can't diagnose; and you don't say how it first appeared. but.

a few years ago I hurt my wrist bouldering, and it took the best part of a year to get better (90%) and a further year (ish) to get back to normal.

I think I'v never got back to 100%. and certain directional pulls can still cause a problem.

don't rush it, see more than one pysio / specialist / quack, stretch / exercise / recuperate thoroughly.

good luck

oh, and did I mention: take your time!

If the pain is on the pinky side, I would try and make sure you can rule out TFCC. But if it is that, then your best chance of recovery is what was already suggested, with emphasis on rest and avoiding anything which gives pain. Hopefully it will recover and by avoiding aggravating the problem you'll stop it from becoming chronic. I had a TFCC injury caused by hanging in a strange way and after a couple of months of rest I was able to try doing a little easy climbing to monitor how it felt at the time / afterwards. After 3 months (and ever since) it's felt completely back to normal.

Both of my wrists are a bit messed up (can't do a press up unless I do it on my knuckles as bending my wrist back 90 degrees will make it hurt for days) but particularly my right hand and wrist, no idea why.

Deep tissue sports massage on forearms helps and I use a trackerball instead of a mouse - this really helps as sitting at a desk using a mouse all day can get really painful.

God knows what I did to mine but my body seems to be made of Blu Tak and balsa wood.  I have the resilience of the French Army.