In reply to Access BMC (England):
Thanks for your (BMC) efforts in getting our access back.
The crag is understandably a little more vegetated than normal, but the most popular routes seem OK (only been once since the ban lifted ) ... hopefully a dry autumn with a bit of traffic and the crag will be reasonably nice and clean again. There were also abseils in place on Lynx/Golden Yardstick, Catwalk/Pupilla and Broken Toe/Jackdaw grooves. I have not yet checked the other ab points.
When you approach along the top of the crag (as we all must do now!) there is a clear sign at the ab point at the top of Jackdaw Grooves/Broken Toe so people new to the crag can orient themselves a bit.
I bring a dedicated ab rope - but it is more usual to ab on your climbing rope and then pull it through. I don't know exact abseil lengths required for each ab point but estimate most to be around 30-35m. A pair of 50m ropes will give you plenty to spare.
Thanks again for getting our access back!