Whitestonecliffe

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 Mike Conlon 23 Aug 2023

However you choose to spell it, a visit to Whitestone is never to be taken lightly. With an abseil approach and lush undergrowth to negotiate before even getting on to the steep friable limestone,  it is arguably not a place for beginners. 

On August 22nd, the CMC had its 2nd visit of the year, there is considerable collective experience to share awareness of the numerous objective hazards. Routes are long, there is some instability, and all holds and protection must be treat with suspicion, as perusal of the logbooks will confirm.

Noticeable on this occasion was the amount of loose rock and breaking holds. One person was struck on the foot under Central Route by a detached foothold, and there were several other near misses, including for a belayer under Hobbledyhoy when a large block came off.

Speculation as to why there should be so much looseness, centered on the amount of rain experienced in recent months. Whatever the reason, prospective visitors would do well to be aware. Helmets are a must, stand well back and out of any line of fire, treat all holds and placements with suspicion, etc, etc.

Stay safe folks.

 Rog Wilko 23 Aug 2023
In reply to Mike Conlon:

Hope Night Watch is still standing.

 Rob Exile Ward 23 Aug 2023
In reply to Mike Conlon:

When I was at York many years ago that was one of our nearer cliffs.

I went just once. 

2
OP Mike Conlon 23 Aug 2023
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Very much so, probably one of the more solid routes on the crag, maybe due to the traffic it receives of which it got plenty last night. That said, being so close to Central Route put the start in the firing line.

 Michael Hood 23 Aug 2023
In reply to Mike Conlon:

I'm sure that we used a descent "gully" (to the right of Nightwatch) on the one occasion I've been there when we went to do the aforementioned route.

Is that descent no longer navigable?

OP Mike Conlon 23 Aug 2023
In reply to Michael Hood:

Locals/regulars customarily rig an ab rope down that gully Michael. There have been accidents in it in the past.

 Michael Hood 23 Aug 2023
In reply to Mike Conlon:

I can understand that. I remember thinking that although it felt ok in the dry, if it had been wet or "merely" slippery from previous wet then it would have been a slightly different experience. 

Also, I visited in mid-May which I presume is well before the nettles and other vegetation have reached their peak.

Post edited at 18:34
 dominic o 24 Aug 2023
In reply to Mike Conlon:

One of the great "esoteric gems" of British climbing! We combined it with a (brief!) visit to Peak Scar after which Whitestone feels positively mainstream!

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2021/08/12/a-day-out-ont-moors-peak-scar-a... 

 Rog Wilko 24 Aug 2023
In reply to dominic o:

Haven’t been to Peak Scar for several decades, but I enjoyed visits there - early in the year before the nettles. Not quite sure OTTOMH what was my first VS lead, but Jam with Sam (worth doing for the name alone) must been close. Jam with Sam (VS 4b). Should be a grit climb really.

Post edited at 10:01
 dominic o 24 Aug 2023
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Haha - yes, essential visit for the tick in Chris Craggs' Limestone 100  


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