Welcome To The Weirdness.
Fiend's view of Leicestershire climbing.
By Fiend.
Crags covered: Beacon Hill, Bradgate Park, The Brand, Carver's Rocks, Crag Y, Craig Buddon, Forest Rock, Granitethorpe Quarry, Hangingstone Quarry, Markfield Quarry, Morley Quarry, Oaks Pinnacle, Outwoods Crag, Pocketgate Quarry.
All comments and corrections based on my own personal experience. If it's not corrected, assume the guidebook details are okay.
Beacon Hill:
A lovely, well situated crag with some of the best - and most unique - micro-routes and bouldering around. Polish is not that much of a problem. A nicer, and cheaper, approach than the main carpark is a walk through the woods from the opposite end of the crag (cheers Nick). Many of the climbs would be boulder problems with a mat down. Without a mat, most are worth their adjectival grade.
Circus of Heaven E1 6a * (not E1 5c) - not completed, very hard, at least 6a.
V Gully VS 4b ** - good
Moonshot Direct E1 5b ** (not E1 6a) - actually easier than Moonshot and almost as good.
Moonshot E1 5b *** - excellent and committing [Leicestershire Classic].
Limbo VS 4c - insignificant
To Be Over E1 5c - not completed, E1 6a at least for the short.
Balsoon HVS 5a - also insignificant.
Starship Trooper E1 6a *** 6m (not 7m) - easy for E1 but a fierce and excellent problem, absorbing [LC].
Collywobble Crack HS 4b *
Third Time Lucky HVS 5c * (not E1 5c) - crux moves low down and not that hard.
The Last Straw HS 4b ** - an extra star because it's well positioned and good climbing.
The Gully Diff * - a star because it's a good introduction to leading, due to being very safe at a low grade (a rarity in Leicestershire).
Jack In The Box HS 4b *
Silk And Satin HVS 5c * 5m (not 6m)
Bow 4a ** - 4m not long enough to get a route grade but a nice problem
Bradgate Park:
Another delightful, if popular, setting - the scenery, including superb ruins and trees, and the chilled vibe just about make up for the hordes of day trippers and extortionate parking charges. Wishing Stone Crag looks fairly bold for bouldering as you could in theory bounce down to the tourist path. On the other hand The Stable Pit is very amenable, with good, fingery bouldering of a slightly eliminate nature.
Yours Is No Disgrace 5c / Green For Go 5b - Both of these lines seem bolloxed up. As it stands, YIND has an eliminate start and then lineless swing right, while GFG starts promisingly and then would shuffle right for no real reason (or maybe it starts right of Tootal, who knows). Far better would be:
??? 5c - A decent eliminate just right of the crack.
YIND (true line) 5c - Bloody great, direct (not left of) to the high point via a good starting crimp and sloping triangular hole. Only a boulder problem but still worth [LC] status.
Tootal 5a - High in the grade but good.
??? (GFG true line?) 5c - A good eliminate can be squeezed between Tootal and Deceptive Crack.
Biceps 4c - Eliminate juggy fun.
The Bulge 5b - Not 5a for those of an average height, interesting top-out.
Thin Crack 5b - Not 4a which was evidently a hilarious joke. One tricky move.
Suffolk 4b - Not 3c, more old guidebook humour.
Maserati 6a - One hell of a good move, proper 6a if you stay to the right of the mini-groove.
Six Digit Wall 6b - Presumably left of the notch, as...
Finger Wall 6a - Goes just to the left edge of the notch. No way to get a 5c problem here, but more good finger moves.
The Brand:
Another lovely crag, sheer quarried walls rising directly out of a lake. The lake, surrounding trees and gardens, shoals of fish, occasional kingfishers, and a comfy grassy top to lounge about on give the crag a very pleasant feel, while the access procedure keeps riff-raff out. Nice.
Sailaway E0 5a ** - Very well protected, sustained and classic jamming that would be a benchmark HVS handcrack if it wasn't for the fact that one side of the crack vibrates alarmingly. The climbing is strenuous and superb but one gets the feeling of having been allowed to survive it rather than being in total control of the situation... [LC] unless you're the person on it when the flake finally 'goes'.
Mango VS 4c *** - No such worries on this climb. Great line, great gear, proper climbing, comparable to any outcrop route [LC].
Dinghy Days VS 4c * - reasonably good climbing but only worth it's star if the gorse is gone and a decent belay can be set up. Otherwise not worth the effort.
Carver's Rocks:
A pointless place - exactly like Southern Sandstone. The rounded nature, sandiness and difficulty of most climbs make it particularly unsuitable for soloing.
Crag Y:
Fairly extensive quarry of reasonable granite, with the climbing limited to one small but impressive buttress. Visible from a working quarry hence Sunday visits are recommended. A squashed car wreck at the base and a continual water outlet over the far side give it the all important ambience. Potentially the new Markfield if it was allowed to survive and given a good clean.
The E1 5c groove E1 5b ** (Not E1 5c) - given stars for being in a clean condition, but usually only worth one star even if brushed. Good line, good climbing, micro-gear is useful for the start as the first peg was pulled out with fingers. Needs a name ('The Bleeding' ??)
Vampires F6b ** - again given stars assuming it's clean which it should be with a little brush. Probably [LC] and worth *** if the bolts were positioned better. Another good line, more good climbing, full weight for F6b with a hard crux and sustained climbing. Micro-cam useful to back up top peg.
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