Val di mello

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 Lucyfoster 10 Aug 2023

Hi, we are currently in the van around the alps and have arrived in val di mello. The shop is out of guide books! Luckily the bar has a copy in Italian. But without spending the whole day in the bar searching the guide, does anyone have any top recommends? I climb VS happily and will try upto E1, my partner climbs around E3. Multi pitch or single pitches. Thanks in advance! 
also, it’s hot so shady crag recommendations welcome! 

 RyanOsborne 10 Aug 2023
In reply to Lucyfoster:

Albero delle Luciole is nice in the afternoon, they're all around 5a-6a, and are in the UKC database.

Trolt is ok in the mornings, I think there's a trad crack there. 

They're both mainly sport climbing though... I think most of the big trad routes in Mello itself are south facing. 

There are some trad cracks on the west and northwest face of Sasso Remenno for mornings. Also around the Scivolo area there's a bit of trad and 6a-6b bolted slabs. 

If you can get hold of a pad, then there's good bouldering in the Bagni forest that stays cooler than most of the sport and trad climbing. 

Also, even at this time of year the sun doesn't really hit Sasso Remenno even on the south face until quite late in the morning, so if you get up early you can do Simon Templar etc.

Post edited at 13:00
 raussmf 10 Aug 2023
In reply to Lucyfoster:

I got one from the Decathlon in Andevenno a few years ago if your at a loose end!

 dominic o 10 Aug 2023
In reply to Lucyfoster:

Il Risveglio di Kundalini (6a+) and Luna Nascente (6b) are the two Uber-classics in the area, they fit your grade range and come highly recommend. Trip reports and a bit of beta below:

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2017/07/11/il-risveglio-di-kundalini/

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2017/07/12/luna-nascente/

Cheers, Dom 


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