UKH

Hi,

Hoping to get my climbing kit dirty this weekend for the first time in a while. We're staying with friends out in Abersoc, so I'd like to have a crack at something in the Tremadog area. Not been there before so looking for some advice.

The husband of Mrs Gs friend is a newbie (ish) climber. Supposed to have climbed with friends and sounds like a reliable sort of fella. I don't want to do anything tricky until I'm happy with his ability to safely belay and retrieve my shiny gear without smashing it to bits.

Can anyone suggest some good VDiff stuff to start on and progress to Severe once we're ready.

Assuming the weather is good enough, otherwise we'll go turd dodging in the sea 

Bramble Buttress (VD). followed by Poor Man's Peuterey (S 4a) maybe? 

I wouldn't bother with Bramble Buttress at this time of year, the bracken will be a bit of a jungle.

Hail Bebe is a good option, then Christmas Curry or Oberon.

Oberon was desperately polished and hard to start (40 yrs ago)

There are some good climbs on the upper tier and they're only single pitch. Might be worth doing a route or two there before launching into multi-pitch? Can easily set up top-ropes even.

To keep it at the grade better to sneek up to the right a little.

OP, tremadog is quite thin on what you might expect at traditional VDiff, so those that exist are quite polished. 

Cracked Slab is a bit easier at Diff, but is really quite pleasant. Nice one to start on.

If you're ok at spotting easier lines you can improvise a line between sheer khan and yogi that's at VDiff/ S, reasonably straight, decent sized stances and no polish. Walk off afterwards. 

Sounds like a plan! Happy to wander between routes to get something enjoyable and not so shiney ploished I can see my face in it.

I appreciate thats a lot to ask at a famous crag.

Thanks everyone for your responses.

I like the suggestions of a diff or two, or even that top roping something harder is an option thats not scorned at

You may be better at the Moelwyns?

It's been a long time but I recall the upper teir being a really pleasant surprise. More of a tor type feel than the lower cliff with lovely views and nice lower grade climbing.

jk

Yes it's hidden away in the trees so feels like an entirely different cliff, rather than a 'tier' of Tremadog. 

It's also very grippy and feels different to the rest of Tremadog (at least the routes I've done). The dolerite on the upper tier has an almost grit-like quality to it. 

My first ever rock climb was at Tremadog (ermm... April 1992? maybe Christmas Curry?), there's enough stuff for a non timid beginner

Cracked Slab (D) is a very easy going Diff (many people seem confuse this with Boo-Boo (D) VD, which has a more awkward start, around the corner).

Hail Bebe (VD) is a fun way up the main crag with some nice exposure at the end.

Bramble Buttress (VD) is my favourite of the VD routes across the Tremadog crags, but the approach/descent might require some vegetation bashing.

Oberon (S 4b) has some stiff moves off the ground and a lot of polish on the first pitch, but is still a fun climb.

Poor Man's Peuterey (S 4a) is another classic, relatively easy for the grade, but the exposed belay before the final pitch can be a bit challenging for a new second.

Christmas Curry (S 4a) is excellent, but you want to be leading severe pretty comfortably for this.

If you drive round the corner into the Aberglaslyn Gorge, then you've also got the fantastic (and usually quiet) Canyon Rib (S) which is also a nice intro to multipitching at that grade.

Other venues of interest with some low grade explorations would be the Upper Tier of Pant Ifan, which has quite a few single pitch routes in the VD-HS range.

If you're looking for quieter crags and don't mind a longer walk in, then Moel-y-Gest is close by and has all sorts of stuff in the low grades to get on.

Turd dodging may be better than seeking out the odd v diff at Tremadoc. 

The crag has a wealth of great multi pitch routes s-vs and above. A great day out.