UKH

Anyone know if a pair of 50s will get you down Titans Wall?

Thanks 

50m wouldn’t get you to the ground, although would get you to the ledge of Titan’s wall where you belay at the end of P1 for that route. There was some tat and stuff to abseil off on the ledge when I was there a couple years ago. A 60m rope gets you to the ground from the top of Titans, only just…

I removed this anchor a couple of summers ago.  the pegs disintegrated when i tapped them with a carabiner so took the lot out.  Theres been a few teams up that way this summer so its probably back in situ.  

Yeh the halfway anchor is in situ again (as of yesterday). The top one could probably do with some new tat, but we sadly had nothing on hand.

Climbed Titan's Wall (E3 5c) last week and can confirm you definitely need 60s to get to the ground and that you could use 50s via the halfway stance. The only thing I would add is that the territory down to the intermediate stance is VERY STEEP and you would want to kick out to get a bit of a swing going or run the risk of being in space and facing a strenuous jugging session.

BTW Titan's Wall is stupendous! Pics and trip report here: https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2023/06/01/a-bivvy-on-the-ben/

Cheers, Dom 

Lovely write up. 

Best way down from plateau at this time of year is Ledge Route as far as the big flat topped pinnacle and then across No5 by a good path to the lochans in the Ciste and then down from there. 

Also, King Kong is completely independent from The Bat other than the first two pitches, which are largely shared with Centurion in any case. 

Thanks all & thanks Nathan for this info. U helped answer the question I was trying to get at which is what is the best strategy to climb more than one route in this area. 

Great beta, thanks. So much more to go back for! Cheers, Dom 

Interesting. How far above the top of Centurion etc is the  flat topped pinnacle? Anything to avoid no 5 gully lower section.

Nobody descends no 4 gully in summer twice.

I find the " abseil posts " descent ok in summer.

A good  way  off minus one buttress, is take a descending traverse leftwards , nice and grassy apart from easy rock near the base. Leave gear at bottom of  ne buttress.

Probably about 5 minutes above the top of the buttress, if I'm at that point though I'll usually just take the hit and descend down into No5 but realistically there's probably not much time difference. If descending from the summit then I'd go down Ledge Route, across the gully and into the Ciste. I actually quite like going down Tower Ridge at the end of the day, rounds things out quite well with a bit of an alpine feel after a long rock route.

I've only done King Kong on that side of the cliff where you could get to the Titan's Wall abseils but I'd always much prefer to finish the route properly to the top of the wall, even if the route is much easier by that point. Those top pitches end up being neglected and getting dirty as a result of folks taking the quick way down and "ticking" only the harder sections. 

Ed; I think descending No4 in summer is now advised against due to the discovery of some rare upland plants near the top during the NF survey a few years back which should be left alone. As you say though, not many folk will feel the need to do it twice!