/ Sports Climbing 16 miles from Newcastle
There are now just over 20 sports routes in Hownsgill Quarry. Most of the older lines that had the odd bolt are now full sport routes. Two routes on the main face are now also bolted plus I've a handful of new lines.
The quarry is ideally suited to sports climbing with new belays added below the crappy shale bands.
Topo is available if you contact me. Looking forward to feedback on the quality of the routes.
Your certainly a contender for North East’s most new routes in 2019 award.
looking forward to checking them out.
Pleased you have found something to turn your hands to whilst Stanhope is of the table.
You’re giving Sport Climbing a bad name
Great news, thanks for all the effort.
I think it would surpass county lines, probably in all of the U.K.
Care to elaborate?
I suspect his point is that sport climbing doesn't have to be about dirty quarries
Go on then, Simon.
For a start it seems the landowner hasn't given permission, not to mention it's sandstone.
The Peak isn’t the ‘Peaks’ and Sport Climbing isn’t ‘Sports’ Climbing
> You’re giving Sport Climbing a bad name
Sounds like a Bon Jovi B-Side.
You are very welcome to bring your trad gear up and lead any of the trad routes.
No offer from me to belay you as I don't want to report a dead body to the police.
Let me know when you are coming as I'll avoid the place.
However the newly bolted routes are very good and safe!
In the 35 years I've lived in the NE it's only recently that I've considered this as a suitable
climbing venue and I feel its for people that have climbed here to judge.
Malcolm Lowerson & I originally cleaned and bolted all the routes on Houndsgill in the eighties. Malcolm lead all the routes and I lead a couple as well. We subsequently mostly used it as a top roping venue. Its great advantage is that because it overhangs it always stays dry and can be climbed on at any time of year. There is a good low level traverse and good bouldering in the caves. We did an interesting high level traverse at about E3 6a. Malcolm took a super peeler midway across the second pitch and we did the final. Third pitch in the dark. Exciting times.
We did a lot more than twenty routes there but I cannot recall exactly how many.
How do you feel regarding turning the crag into a true sport climb? According to the info I have you climbed close to 70 routes.
I've counted around 10 8mm bolts across the routes. Did you add the glued in (belay) bolts as well? I've been unable to remove any of the old bolts which don't look in the best condition but still seem strong and secure.
Does Malcolm still climb? i'd be interested in his views as well.
Bolts were only placed by Malcolm at the base of the shale bands to protect the dodgy finishes through the shale bands. Nuts and the occasional peg were used to protect the routes below the shale bands.
I think the crag would benefit greatly from being developed into a proper sport venue. More traffic would help keep the routes clean. It is close to Newcastle and a good place to train in winter, and generally stays dry even in rain.
Malcolm gave up climbing about 10yrs ago. He was always a very cool and stylish climber, he excelled on loose rock. "(a la Mick Fowler)".
Yes, this is the starting point for any new developments.
A new topo can be downloaded for free at www.rock-topos.com
if you don't hit the site 1st go try refreshing - internet redirection!
Whilst this all great news developing the crag (as I live 30 mins away), given what has happened at Stanhope access wise (and I don't know all the ins and outs) and given the history of access not been given to climbers at this crag, can be assured of climbing in the future?
I'm only asking as getting hooked at Stanhope (both sides) on some really great routes, now not being allowed in hurts.
we went today and its looking good ;) go before they ban access and remember your clipstick!
Please note the landowner has made it known that they do not permit climbing at the venue.
The RAD and UKC crag page have been updated accordingly
> Please note the landowner has made it known that they do not permit climbing at the venue.
> The RAD and UKC crag page have been updated accordingly
So just ignore that and climb there until you get asked to leave. Plead ignorance. Simple, really.
> So just ignore that and climb there until you get asked to leave. Plead ignorance. Simple, really.
Great way to never get access sorted that.
> Great way to never get access sorted that.
Actually, probably the only way, based on past experience.
We should have more info in a couple of weeks and hopefully a resolution. The landowner has never permitted climbing, so the situation is the same as it's always been in that sense.
What I was getting at by suggesting that climbing supposedly being banned at a crag should be ignored until actually being told to clear off is that if you keep a low profile and follow the country code (no noise, dogs, litter etc) you will often not be troubled, particularly where, say, a quarry lies in a remote location and is disused. What an owner doesn't notice they won't worry about. Where problems have often arisen is where eg loud, noisy groups block access points and allow dogs to worry animals.
The real issue at Houndsgill is the kids that hang out there for under age drinking sessions and the odd bit of glue. Its not climbers that cause the problems.
We went there for several decades from about 1980 on. We were never moved on, or had problems with youths.
Lake District-based runner Kim Collison has set a new speed record on the Bob Graham Round in winter. Kim completed the round in just 15 hours 47 minutes, knocking a big chunk from the previous fastest winter time of 18:18 set by Jim Mann in 2013.