Routes for someone with no fitness

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 dinodinosaur 09 Apr 2020

At the end of this (whenever that may be) a lot of us will have lost some fitness for pumpy climbing but will have fingers of steel, washboard abs and biceps larger than ever before. So with this in mind, what route would suit this kind of climber. Ie, slabby or cruxy routes with some fingery moves or just a couple of burly yards. 

Initial thoughts are most routes on the slate would fit into this category as would some grit slabs and  micro routes.

 Tom Green 09 Apr 2020
In reply to dinodinosaur:

The Orang Outang out of Jungle Book (E3 6c)

Described in the old Avon and Cheddar Guide (what an awesome pair of books!) as “a must for the VS leader with V9 bouldering skills: the ultimate dyno awaits you!”

Disclaimer: not having V9 bouldering skills, I haven’t done it!

 AJM 09 Apr 2020
In reply to dinodinosaur:

If you have the tools to get strong fingers (a fingerboard) then you have the tools to stay fit - it's just really dull!

I'm not sure about slabs, especially grit ones, given they probably reward technique more than they do either strength or fitness.

 summo 09 Apr 2020
In reply to dinodinosaur:

There are already people who've done crazy vertical ascent numbers on their staircase. As said above an ability to zone out is key to fighting the extreme boredom.

 deacondeacon 09 Apr 2020
In reply to dinodinosaur:

Almost everything on grit

There are tonnes of great, bouldery, one bit of gear style routes in the E2-E4 range.

Start with Wings Of Unreason and go from there  

 ianstevens 09 Apr 2020
In reply to summo:

General cardio fitness is very, vey different to pumpy climbing fitness though! 

 AJM 09 Apr 2020
In reply to ianstevens:

True, but if you have the boredom threshold for that you're probably well suited to aerobic fingerboard training!!!

In reply to dinodinosaur:

Nesscliffe

 AlanLittle 09 Apr 2020
In reply to dinodinosaur:

I could recommend the first 7b I ever did - basically a 6C-ish overhanging boulder on little conglomerate pebbles & pockets, to a jug at the second bolt, followed by a stroll up a slab that's at most 6b. It's in Bavaria though, and by the time international travel is on again you'll all have had time to regain some route fitness.

 summo 09 Apr 2020
In reply to ianstevens:

> General cardio fitness is very, vey different to pumpy climbing fitness though! 

The old after pub game of climbing under a table and back on top.. doing laps, sideways and long ways?

*Non climbing partners may not approve. 

 ianstevens 09 Apr 2020
In reply to summo:

Like ALM said above, bet targeted at repeaters on a hangboard if you want climbing specific fitness

 Andy Farnell 09 Apr 2020
In reply to dinodinosaur:

The routes on the RHS of the Tor , or most of the Rubicon routes will suit those with steel fingers and large biceps.

Andy F

OP dinodinosaur 10 Apr 2020
In reply to Andy Farnell:

Hubble (9a) is meant to be pretty cruxy, could be worth a shot? 

In reply to dinodinosaur:

I had a mate, Andy,  who could stay off climbing for years and do Rubicon with ease, only as long as he had a large female audience. 

Food for thought...

 UKB Shark 11 Apr 2020
In reply to dinodinosaur:

Cruxy routes are a bit shit so my recommendation would be either to take up bouldering or work back up through the grades on quality routes - highly unfashionable, I know.


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