I’m compiling a list of quality routes at tremadog that either need some attention or a major clean to bring them back into perfect condition. Does anyone have any good suggestions or experiences? I’m especially after suggestions of routes that used to get done more often and were of good quality, but have now called by the wayside. For the time being I’m focusing on bwlch y moch. Clean edge would be a good example of this. It’s great climbing but is a bramble garden now.
Borneo was pretty bad last time I did it, but I suspect it got that name for a reason
Burlesque is pretty overgrown, I backed off leading secateurs in hand a few years ago, not sure it's been cleaned since.
The start of the corner on the top pitch of grim wall is getting encroached on by the ivy a little bit.
Some gentle trimming on the link pitch on Hail Bebe might be worthwhile but it might also have died back a fair bit now (brambles).
I'm sure there are more, those are just the ones that come to mind.
Thanks for volunteering to help organise Rachel. I'd look at the ukc logbook for Bwlch y Moch and sort in reverse order of logbook entries. This gives a starter for 10 list of routes across the grade range that might need a clean or quality review.
Regarding the 'revival' category, if there are any candidate routes identified in due course with knackered old pegs that require 'attention', it'd be good to bring a list to a NW Area Meeting for consultation before any drilling/gluing, especially as this is the BMC's own crag.
Hi, yes, for background refer to the summary doc I presented at the Cymru N Wales BMC Area Meeting last month: https://community.thebmc.co.uk/GetFile.ashx?did=3899. There was a full range of views expressed on the topic.
There are plenty of precedents now for replacing old hammered pegs on trad routes in North Wales with drilled/glued runners e.g. Citadel on Main Cliff, Chicama (E9) at Treaddur Bay, Rhoscolyn, Clogwyn yr Adar, Castell Cidwm etc. You may have clipped one or two on Quickstep at Forwyn.
Regarding Tremadog, specific routes mentioned for discussion include Swift Undercut and Llanberries which both rely on old pegs and don't get any traffic now the pegs are knackered, so what to do? Replace with hammered pegs, remove the pegs and re-climb without, or drill and glue a longer-lasting runner that could last 50 years - to be discussed...
AFAIK Llanberries hasn't had a second ascent, swift undercuts pegs are probably shot, but an actual assessment of the available trad gear needs to take place because there is gear on the route.
I climbed black is beautiful at llanymynech the other day, there are plenty of gear options next to the glued pegs, likewise is the case for some of the Adar routes. Its getting a bit out of hand imo (unfortunately wasn't able to make the last meeting).
Do we know who has placed them?
Its a good old leap and feels pretty spicy but is pretty safe (although I think I might top rope it first next time after two big lobs haha).
We had a good totem cam in the break alongside the peg and you could realistically get 3-4 in the break to hedge your bets if the peg wasn't there. The low peg area is also protectable with care.
No idea who placed them.
Tom - I don't mind them occasionally, but you should go and look at some of the routes listed in the doc and tell me they are really needed. That's the main problem. Agree about tat and rope litter.
yes i remember having lots of pegs in when I did it which was enough for me to reluctantly commit to the pop crux move, but i would have been pretty unkeen to just do a test jump.
> Chwys could do with a peg bolt, or maybe just a new peg.
In reply to Si Witcher:
> There are plenty of precedents now for replacing old hammered pegs on trad routes in North Wales with drilled/glued runners e.g. Citadel on Main Cliff, Chicama (E9) at Treaddur Bay, Rhoscolyn, Clogwyn yr Adar, Castell Cidwm etc. You may have clipped one or two on Quickstep at Forwyn.
> Regarding Tremadog, specific routes mentioned for discussion include Swift Undercut and Llanberries which both rely on old pegs and don't get any traffic now the pegs are knackered, so what to do? Replace with hammered pegs, remove the pegs and re-climb without, or drill and glue a longer-lasting runner that could last 50 years - to be discussed...
In reply to Ed Booth:
> Didn't know there were now pegs in the break in Black is Beautiful. I has seen your video of falling, and was impressed by your unphased approach jumping onto the shallow cam placements that i remember. Changes it now if you sayign they are glued pegs?
Can we stop calling them pegs or runners? If the placement is drilled and the metalwork is glued then it is a bolt whatever it may look like at first glance. Call them p-bolts if you absolutely insist on differentiating them from the commercial products available to fill drilled holes.
I suppose they are just bolts so I'm happy to go with that, I think whoever is placing them needs to be questioned. I'm aware of one main protagonist but assume it's not a lone venture.
In order to keep this thread focussed on Tremadog I've created a separate thread for the Pegbolts discussion: https://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/rock_talk/pegbolts-754307
Whilst Si's initial reference to pegs/pegbolts was indeed relevant to Tremadog, most of those that followed weren't, so if you wish to discuss these other crags - or pegbolts/fixed gear in general - please do so there.
I know I've spoken out about pegbolts previously and, much like Si, am concerned about their spread and placement, as well as the complete lack of transparency regarding their placement. I'd also echo Duncan's sentiments about exactly what they are, because if they're drilled and glued (which they are) then they're certainly not pegs - they're bolts.
The peg on Chwys can be backed up by a small nut. Took me ages to get it out so its a good placement.
In fact, I'd say the peg should be removed as its right where you need to hold to do the rockover and is too tempting to use as aid even though the leader really would rather not want to do that.
Maybe a bit of a clean of the ivy to the right of the peg is necessary as it might reveal some additional placements.
psyche n burn is really clean but I think maybe the start gets brambly each year, you know the area as soon as you leave the Vulcan stance? The pegs on it were replaced at some stage, or at least the low ones (and moved slightly maybe?) possibly around 2000-2005? Tom had a go when he was over this way before the summer. Pant Ifan needs its own festival!…
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