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Mountain Routes to Bivvy On - Lakes or NWales

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 Greylag 15 Sep 2020

Hi,

I imagine this has been done before but my searches have revealed very little.

As the title suggests I'm after routes up to severe that have a good ledge to bivvy on. Preferably in north Wales or the Lakes.

I notice people have bivvied on Horned Crag Route (VD), any others people are aware of?

Thanks,

Stuart.

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 ianstevens 15 Sep 2020
In reply to Greylag:

Cyfrwy by the Table Direct (VD) has big flat ledge hallway up as the name suggests. You'd need to start late to make it worthwhile; although I presume the exercise is for the "enjoyment" of a mid-route snooze.

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In reply to Greylag:

Bowfell Buttress- before the crux crack would be a nice spot

Corvus- before the hand traverse

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 Doug 15 Sep 2020
In reply to Greylag:

How big is the ledge on Direct Route (Dinas Mot) ? I remember it being large but its a long time since I climbed in Wales

edit to get the right route name!

Post edited at 12:41
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 Greylag 15 Sep 2020
In reply to ianstevens:

Thanks and yes it is for the enjoyment. I'm thinking of making the most if the warmer weather we have at the moment.

Table Direct could be a good one. I'll just be sure of the direction I sleep in to avoid rolling off half way through the night! 

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In reply to Greylag:

Craig Yr Ysfa

Amphitheatre Buttress

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 petegunn 15 Sep 2020
In reply to Greylag:

The summit of Pillar Rock would be good and easy enough if you go up Slab and Notch

Post edited at 12:57
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 a crap climber 15 Sep 2020
In reply to Greylag:

Middle fell buttress on Raven crag in Langdale. It's got ledges big enough to pitch a sizeable tent on

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 ianstevens 15 Sep 2020
In reply to Doug:

Probably big enough, as would be some of the ones on The Cracks. Or I guess the "top" of the Idwal Slabs before the continuations?

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 baron 15 Sep 2020
In reply to Greylag:

The top of Idwal Slabs seems to be quite popular - although not always by design.

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In reply to Greylag:

Tryfan East Face, ledge behind the pinnacle on the "rib" routes below the Yellow Slab.

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In reply to ianstevens:

The table is at a fairly steep angle, it'd definitely be a pretty uncomfortable spot to sleep. It's also extremely exposed to the wind.

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 ianstevens 15 Sep 2020
In reply to pancakeandchips:

It's really not; I've had a nap there myself before - admittedly not an all nighter. Plenty of scope to attach yourself to something too.

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 SuperstarDJ 15 Sep 2020
In reply to Michael Hood:

> Tryfan East Face, ledge behind the pinnacle on the "rib" routes below the Yellow Slab.

That'd be quite sheltered too I think.

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 adi bryant 15 Sep 2020
In reply to Greylag:

Craig Yr Ogof in Cwm Silyn has the cave and sunset ledge. I don't know for certain whether either is any good for a sleep but someone else will. I know it has had a big rockfall recently but I think there are routes that avoid the slab affected. 

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 petegunn 15 Sep 2020
In reply to Greylag:

Hopkinson's Cairn on Scafell Pinnacle? 

Direct from Lord's Rake S 4a Bivi, then Low Man from Hopkinson's Cairn VD to the top. 

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 smithg 15 Sep 2020
In reply to Greylag:

Lockwood's Chimney

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 Michael Gordon 15 Sep 2020
In reply to Greylag:

Napes Needle

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In reply to ianstevens:

My memory of the table is it was very slopy, not suitable for a bivvy!

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 ianstevens 15 Sep 2020
In reply to Slarti B:

It’s a bit slopey yes, but nothing too extreme! Like I posted above, I’ve used it for a mid run snooze myself in the past

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 veteye 16 Sep 2020
In reply to smithg:

Even in the current warmer weather, Lockwood's chimney is likely to be still fairly damp to bivvy in.

It will not be much different than Great Gully on Craig yr Ysfa.

To the Op,what about the Ben? I've unintentionally bivvied near the top of Tower Ridge, after the gap, with an exhausted girlfriend in August several years ago.

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In reply to veteye:

Yeh, right, nudge, nudge, wink, wink - nicely planned 😁

Rubbing each other's "toes" a la south summit of Everest bivvy.

Post edited at 08:53
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 Greylag 16 Sep 2020
In reply to Michael Gordon:

Haha good one!

Thanks for all of the responses I've got a good few to go at.

I'll let you know how I get on.

Cheers

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 JMAB 16 Sep 2020
In reply to Greylag:

I've bivvied on Horned Crag Route, probably the logbook entry you saw. Do not recommend, didn't find anywhere flat and big enough for 2 people. Woke up with bruises from weighting my harness all night.

Post edited at 21:57
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 babymoac 16 Sep 2020
In reply to Greylag:

Why not pick a UK route where most people would need a bivvy :

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/boulder_ruckle-246/wonderland-375736

Volunteers ?

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 Sean Kelly 17 Sep 2020
In reply to Greylag:

Best is probably the Priest's Hole, the cave above Dove Crag, and it faces east so gets any morning sun that's going!

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 Greylag 17 Sep 2020
In reply to JMAB:

Wow! Thanks for the heads up.

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In reply to Greylag:

I would choose one with plenty of turf so that in the event of needing a morning crap you can dig a proper hole rather than just putting a stone on tip of it (or just hurling it down the line you climbed the day previously). Unless you intend to bag it, of course.Or you're one of those people who only shits twice a week.

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 Trangia 18 Sep 2020
In reply to Greylag:

You could probably find somewhere on Lliwedd. It would feel quite committing, and more like the challenge of finding a spot on an Alpine face?

In the early 1960s I once did a forced bivi with a couple of friends on Sron na Ciche with the victims of a climbing accident we had witnessed, one of whom had a broken leg, and the other badly rope burnt hands. We were there all night and much of the next morning waiting for help and then assisting with lower off of the broken leg guy once the MR team was able to reach us. 

A very uncomfortable, wet and cold night with just a single old 6d bar of Cadbury's Milk Chocolate to share between us!

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 Offwidth 18 Sep 2020
In reply to Greylag:

Unless you are one of the lucky folk who can guarentee to control their bowels for a day you should not be bivying on a climbing route without a practical toilet solution like wag bags.  There has been good information on how to shit in the outdoors for years  but in practice behaviour near climbs (where no-one else usually goes) gets worse by the year.

https://thedyrt.com/magazine/gear/wag-bag-camping-waste/

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In reply to Offwidth:

They don't seem like a particularly eco-friendly solution. What's in the solidying agent? More plastic, chemicals and crap in landfill doesn't sound like a step forward to me.

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 Lankyman 18 Sep 2020
In reply to pancakeandchips:

When I was a kid we had a dog that liked to eat shit. He'd have been great to have on a bivvy ledge.

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In reply to Michael Hood:

> Tryfan East Face, ledge behind the pinnacle on the "rib" routes below the Yellow Slab.

Yes, that would be very good because it's grassy IIRC, but the creme de la creme, surely, would be Belle Vue Terrace at the top of Terrace Wall on the north buttress. A smooth rock ledge about the width of an old fashioned pavement, in a superbly exposed position. Because east-facing, would be superb at dawn. Something I always fancied doing, but never got round to.

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In reply to Greylag:

Oh God, here we go, you tried wild camping, too tame, let's go 

"Extreme Camping" TM

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 Offwidth 19 Sep 2020
In reply to pancakeandchips:

I agree the more environmentally friendly solution would be to climb the route in one go and not bivi in the middle (such that you might well need a crap on the route). If a bivi is planned on an area of very limited space, Wag bags are simply the best solution I know of. Packing out your shit is compulsory on some big walls (eg Yosemite).

Normally, responsible people who can chose a sensible place to shit when wild camping carry a small trowel to bury it.

The issue isn't just about environmentalism, its also about health.  Toilet health is a wider problem some people just don't seem to get: like morons I've seen having a crap next to a stream that feeds into a water source (eg some Cuillin ridge aspirants who bivi in Coir' a' Ghrunnda).

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In reply to Greylag:

Giant's Crawl (Summer) (D) on Dow Crag has some farily spacious ledges.

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