UKH

Climbing at the Red pillar of the Blaitiere, and looking at Fidel Fiasco (ED2 6c+), how the hell would a first ascent of something like that be done ground up (assuming it was done in that style).

For long sections, there's no protection beyond bolts, and I can't imagine the compact slab would take even esoteric gear.

Assuming it was, and assuming there is no intermediate gear, then it would have been done running it out between places where they could place a bolt, be that from a skyhook, simply braced on a stance, etc.

With much trepidation.

That’s,exactly how it was done. I spoke to Piola about this. Many of his slab routes are some of the best in the range but now a forgotten art of balance and technique, which requires forceful leading and a determined apprenticeship to learn. On some of the ABO routes, but not all, you could be in danger of serious injury if you miss a clip, as often it’s often 10m between bolts at sustained UK 6A/6B. I remember after doing Dimanche Noir on the Peine slabs we bumped into Thierry Renault in Cham. and he said “ah yes Dimanche Noir, if you fart you fall” Classic.

Check out the US style of ground-up bolting for how far this scary technique can be taken, especially in Tuolumne.

I've always enjoyed many of Godefroy Perroux's routes, not always the hardest or boldest (safe enough to fart on!), but great lines often featuring long slab pitches.

I am full of admiration for the pioneers of this bold style of new routing.

They paid a bold and rewarding game - unfortunately the rest of us sometimes pay the price. 

For a repeat ascencionist, some of the bolts are ridiculously placed, eg on ledges well after or before the hard climbing. Turning a bolted route that could easily be safe into a legbreaker. The line of the route is also often compromised, sometimes they skulk between weaknesses where bolting is easier, rather than taking on the most beautiful walls sections of walls which a rappel bolter would choose.

Rap bolted lines are almost always more enjoyable for me to climb. I don't need dozens of bolts, or every runout tamed - but just want to follow the most consistent line of the best climbing - which is often impossible to see or bolt when first ascentionist are going ground up. 

There's good and bad in both.

- Sometimes it can be as you say

- Sometimes a line bolted ground up will follow a more logical line of weakness/least difficulty and a line can be bolted on rappel with no regard to clipping positions, to where the logical line actually goes, or to whether the bolt line is actually possible (which can lead to the odd "enhancement" to make it so).

There's a bloke called Rheinhold wants a word about the murder of the impossible 

Yup, no messnerbout with the Alps please!

I'm inclined to agree. However impressive the FA may have been, what is left is basically incredibly minimalist bolting of which I'm not a great fan. Either keep it trad or bolt it properly.

Done that a couple of ways (in USA). First, drilling on the lead. Leader has stripped down drill with a long cord that goes to a battery with the belayer. Bolts drilled once a decent foothold is reached. Repeat. I think the one we did was five slab pitches. A harder one we did by dropping a rope down the route. Leader climbs and at a high point dabs the rock with chalk and jumps off. Then jumar up rope and place bolt at the dab. Leader starts again from ground and clips bolt, climbs higher and dabs again, jump off and jumar up and place another bolt, repeat.

Great fun if a little harrowing.

Mick

Wow, ok, that makes it even more impressive. The idea of standing on a precarious slab to drill a bolt on lead seems insane.

Like this:

https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/106214793/tobin-sorenson-1973-photo-f...

Just echoing what everyone else has said but Jacob Cook and his pal Drew have been adding some new routes to Squamish in this style https://www.instagram.com/p/CtZks-zplqN/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==