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Greator Rocks Eastern Tor Grades?

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 yizong127 28 Sep 2020

Was wondering why the grade given for Dominatrix VS variation is 4b/c ish despite having to finish on the harder bit of Tools You Can Trust E1 5a?

Surely the grade for Tools can't be disctated by the start considering it's much easier than the top?

Unless I've taken the wrong line for the top.

If someone could explain this it would be Great-ly appreciated!

Tools You Can Trust (E1 5a)

Dominatrix (HS 4b)

Dominatrix (HS 4b)

Greator Rocks

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 Jim blackford 28 Sep 2020
In reply to yizong127:

I agree the topo on ukc shows the variation joining Tools you can trust before the hard part. Therefore seems to be an unworthwhile linkup which should definately be 5a not 4b/c and e1 too unless there's a good high siderunner. 

I've soloed both of these routes but never heard of dominatrix variation.  

Post edited at 09:45
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In reply to yizong127:

Topo is wrong. Doesnt join TYCT, climbs the slab just left of Dominatrix. Eliminate.

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 phil456 30 Sep 2020
In reply to Mark S Davies:

This is the variation description on ukc

Climb Dominatrix onto its first ledge then step left and follow the thin slab on crystals to finish as for Tools You Can Trust.

I did the topo following the description 

Perhaps I have the line moving across too early ?  Tools is less steep the further up you go and that would fit more with the grades.

I will have a look next time I am out there; in the meantime suggestions are welcome; happy to change the photo.

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In reply to phil456:

I dont know if you had climbed the route before drawing the topo but it does help! The problem is that people tend to follow topos more than descriptions nowadays so they should reall y be drawn from first hand experience. I worked on this crag for the CC book and did the topos. I shunted all the lines before drawing the topos. Didn't bother including this variation on the topo as thought it was a bit crap.

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 phil456 01 Oct 2020
In reply to Mark S Davies:

Fair enough; I have changed the photo until I can get out there and see if I can make sense any better of the line.

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 phil456 13 Oct 2020
In reply to yizong127:

Dominatrix variation : I was lucky enough to get out there this week and climb it.

Following the UKC description:   “ Climb Dominatrix onto its first ledge then step left and follow the thin slab on crystals to finish as for Tools You Can Trust “

From the first ledge there is a cam placement high in the flake which protects the step left onto the slab from the first ledge; I found this the hardest move; from here I moved diagonally left towards the finish of Tools you can Trust; this leaves out what I think is the hardest part of “ Tools “ the  first two meters off the flake.

Grades : E1 5a, for Tools, maybe a bit soft for 5a but I like slabs, it’s certainly scary for sure.

Dominatrix variation with the line I took and cam in the flake I felt HS 4b was about right.

I have changed my picture topo to better reflect the description.

Happy climbing

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In reply to phil456:

Good work!

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