In reply to Trangia:
> (In reply to Jon Stewart)
>
> Swanage is a strange one...
I haven't been, and I'm not very likely to since Pembroke is easier to get to (although I could get into DWS). Do folks think somewhere just above the middle of the list?
>
> N Wales and the Lake District seem about right to me.
I find N Wales varies greatly according to rock type, and the Lakes often seems harsh. Lately, I've done The Bludgeon, Saxon (real struggle on the crux for me), and heard stories of how hard the East Buttress E1s are (Phoenix and Leverage). Aardvark is completely nails for E1, Cruel Sister pretty damn scary at E3 (but the right grade), White Gyhll Eliminate felt 6a, only Ichabod felt normal at the grade to me (but not easy). I have done a few soft touches in the Lakes too, but compared to say NW Scotland, I'd say E1 (Lakes) and E3 (NW) were roughly equivalent.
> Cornwall and Lundy again pleasant and about right, particularly if the sun is shining. Doesn't a nice day buck up your morale?
Certainly does. Everything is better with the sun out. But the grades at Bosigran are still nails! Bow Wall 5b!?? Top pitch of Thin Wall Special 5a?!! Carn Barra on the other hand seemed soft...Chair Ladder somewhere in between (although I had to give up on West Face Direct, although conditions could be to blame, if they ever are, really).
Not been to Lundy, where should it go in the list?
>
> Gritstone always seems holdless to me
It is a law unto itself. Seems to me every crag and every grade has routes that are trivial, while others are completely impossible - and often because the moves are absurdly hard rather than the proximity of the ground and the lack of gear for the crux.
>
> Scottish sandstone on the west coast is about right for the grade,
Reiff? The grades I encountered were ludicrously soft. VSs that were VDiff, E3s that were HVS. The odd correctly graded route thrown in (e.g. Seal Song) just to keep you on your toes.