Gates of Eden, Torquay

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 Motown 18 Aug 2023

The UKC description for Gates of Eden has a footnote that reads: 

‘This has suffered from a slight rockfall and the grade is now E1 5b.’ 
 

Can’t find a reference to this in any logbooks. Last climbed it in 2019 and thought it was a fairly soft HVS with one tricky move on pitch 1. Has anything else changed?

Thanks.Gates of Eden (VS 5a)

 Derry 18 Aug 2023
In reply to Motown:

climbed about this time last year, and saw the same info. Went in with a bit of trepidation, but actually found it very straightforward - still around VS/HVS. As you say, one tricky move but no dramas.

OP Motown 18 Aug 2023
In reply to Derry: thank you. That makes sense in light of no other comments suggesting rockfall or grade increase. Thanks again.

 Graeme Hammond 18 Aug 2023
In reply to Motown:

I think your assessment is spot on from my memory of climbing it last year. Many easy apart from a few moves on the first pitch.

 rurp 19 Aug 2023
In reply to Motown:

There’s a single move ( well protected ) on the first pitch which I had to try two or three ways to get up on second. It’s not E1 but it certainly could be 5b. I thought low HVS hard 5a or easy 5b. It would be aidable if you were stuck

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 Sean Kelly 19 Aug 2023
In reply to Motown:

HVS,5a for that one move. The top belay delightful, but don't ab in. Easier across the boulder beach.

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OP Motown 22 Aug 2023
In reply to Motown:

Thanks all. Climbed it again. Gates of Eden is exactly as it has been for the last 15+ years, i.e. UKC E1 comment is misleading. Managed to exit through bushes at top - often very overgrown. Just carried on up from Triton belay and popped out on Daddyhole Plain. 
 

In light of comments that boulder beach was better approach, I’m in two minds. If you are there to do one route, perhaps boulder beach is best, but if you want to do more than one, I reckon ab in. You can gear up and leave kit at top and save time getting back to the bottom. I prefer the Triton abseil rather than swinging around over Last Exit and Gragantua. Worth noting that tat on Triton 8a a bit suspect. 

 Derry 22 Aug 2023
In reply to Motown:

glad you enjoyed it and was what you expected. We had an absolute mare getting out of there through the scrub and recently felled trees. So if not familiar with the area the boulder beach is probably a better approach imho. When we went there we left gear at the bottom knowing we'd have to retrieve, so did Plimsole line as a DWS traverse from Meadfoot quarry to retrieve the gear. a bit of a faff, but meant another route and snuck in a swim too before taking the gear back up for ice creams and a pint.


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