UKH

Having been utterly delinquent as a father up till now, I intend to make amends by introducing the kids to outdoor rock climbing somewhere in Dorset next week. I know Portland reasonably well (other than the various "micro routes" of the last decade!) but herds of donkeys have lived and died since I went to anywhere in Purbeck (Winspit/Dancing Ledges) and even when I did I certainly wasn't looking at it from a kid's perspective. I will be with non-climbing wife so ideally looking for:

(1) easy routes suitable for nearly 10 year olds (tall for their age and pretty sporty, but only done indoor climbing so far)

(2) bolted belays, ideally with access to top, but could probably solo/get Mrs Nic to belay if needed

(3) easy access to routes themselves.

Various previous threads have mentioned Dancing Ledges (no belays?), the Cuttings (just no...), Triple Slab (tricky access, only a couple of routes?)...any corrections to this, further suggestions and up to date information would be much appreciated...also suggestions as to how to combine with a wider day out (e.g. walks etc.) - lunch at the Crab House Cafe is already nailed on, but any other "must do" activities in Portland or Purbeck near the climbing areas welcome.

On Portland the.Diamond Slabs have easier routes with the tops reachable from the top, but the way down is horrible and probably worse after the recent rains.

Purbeck; Dancing Ledge has accessible belays at the top of the short sea level routes, easy access and a great sea pool in the ledge below for the kids. A big safe grassy area for kids to explore.

Hedbury has easy sport routes, easy access, a big grassy ledge and caves to explore. Access to the sea is awkward.

Currently 'closed' (multi-agency decision, including BMC), due to significant geological movement... Awaiting geotechnical assessment.

Thanks Scott, had forgotten Hedbury.

Likewise Captain Paranoia.

Only the west quarry is shut, the Quarrymans wall / south face side is open as usual. Not much use to the OP though as there's only two or three routes easier than 6a and no access from above.

Heres the topos for the dancing ledge routes, I cant remember if there are bolts at the top or if you need some trad gear for the anchos. The routes are between 8/10m high.

https://imgcdn.ukc2.com/i/305973?fm=webp&time=1518618950&s=5185ea31...

https://imgcdn.ukc2.com/i/305948?fm=webp&time=1518613789&dpr=1&...

In reply to elliptic:

I think it's still worthwhile  - there's three 4's which are excellent for the grade and a few 5's as well.  Enough for the kids to have a go at on their first day outside, and then pop back to the square and compass for a pint and some crisps - a definite Dorset must!

There's bolts at the top for these, but none on the actual routes.

I may be deficient as a climbing father but I haven't let them start drinking yet...

I don't know what age your kids are, but these are pretty cool for most ages (including adult) https://www.visit-dorset.com/listing/spyway-dinosaur-footprints/229481301/

Unsure if this is OK for you or not (I’m a peace loving hippy myself) but I’ve heard the tank museum is a good family visit.

https://tankmuseum.org/visit-us

Join their ebay lottery to drive their Tiger tank...

Thanks, we are on top of the "usual" Dorset type activities (Monkey World a favourite, we sometimes have to threaten my son that we will return him there if he doesn't behave...), it was more stuff we could do on the same day as the climbing. Dinosaur footprints a good idea.

Dancing Ledge is ideal. There are belay stakes at the top of the lower tier, but a length of static rope back to a large boulder is also a good move for some bits.

Just be careful if it's wet - the walk down from the fields at the top can be slippery.

It is, I recently took my scouts there. Top tip - check to see what's on in advance, as some special days might be booked out, or have other restrictions.

We often spend time at Chapmans Pool, mooching along the beach searching for ammonites and fossils, (Not that you find any 😒) going in for a dip, watching the Peregrines and Ravens fighting.

It’s a nice spot that might a[peal to a 10 year old and is just along from Dancing Ledge.

The Dinosaur footprint site is interesting but not that exciting … but is local to Dancing ledge.

You can't have been looking too hard... I came across a 0.5m diameter giant ammonite a couple of weeks ago. Funnily enough, when I went back to photograph it again a few days later, with something for scale, it had gone. About half a ton of rock. Hmmm...

If the tide is low, the exposed, black, harder shale levels have plenty of embedded fossils. Just not ones you can take away.

Been a lot of falls in the back wall recently; worth bearing in mind of you plan to sit right against the back wall...

You must be a geologist, none of my rock pictures are complete without a compass, hammer or similar!

Back to the climbing, I was looking at the Veranda* at Battleship, which looks to have a handful of short easy routes with pretty good access? Has anyone been here who can comment?

* I looked at this many years ago with drill in hand with a view to putting a route or two on it, solely so I could name the sector "Pocket Battleship"...couldn't be bothered in the end!

Slight correction to this, at the top of the lower sea facing wall you will not find stakes. There are holes drilled in the rock through which you can arrange top ropes with a few 120cm sling and screw gates. Last year someone had /helpfully annotated the holes with the route names. This is the most useable venue for climbing with kids in dorset. On calm days there is also a small swimming pool on the lower tier so take your swimmers. 

No, but my brother is; that's why I went back...

Without reading the whole thread - Lost Valley on Portland is quite good and where I first took our kids. A nice slabby area which isn't too hard to solo up, and then some steeper stuff on the other side (which will need a belay imho). Fairly secluded and quiet, good range of lower grades.

Veranda also an option. Nice picnic spot at the base of the crag. you can access some of the anchors from the top if you're careful, but you basically start with the easiest routes on the left and the get progressively harder as you move right.

Just remember that dancing ledge has a big hill down and back up. Can be made easier by a longer journey in a zig zag. WInspit has an easier hill, my 5.5 yr old made it a week or so ago. However I'd be dubious he'd make the dancing ledge one without much complaining. 

If its calm, dancing ledge has a some good sea caves with a swim through between, if snorkelling is also on the agenda. 

Might help make a full day of it... 

Thanks all, very helpful suggestions. I suspect we will try the Veranda given ease of access. If the kids enjoy it we might do Dancing Ledges another time for a bigger day out...then I can point them at Boulder Ruckle and let them get on with it...

On that note, does anyone know whether it is "appropriate" to park on Reap Lane these days or is it frowned upon? It will be a weekday.

Not climbing but worth noting that there are currently 7 Osprey and 2 White Tailed Eagles flying round Poole harbour so a visit to Arne might be of interest … https://www.birdsofpooleharbour.co.uk/sightings/harbour-update-posted-15-08...

Guaranteed if its a calm sea day there will be dozens of coasteering groups there. Swimming is lovely, just watch out who's bombing in above you!

Reap Lane is fine. park considerately and you wont have a problem! Just watch the path down to the Veranda. There's a fixed rope but some of the little worn gravelly bits are like ballbearings to walk on. 

Ah, is there a path straight down to it, rather than walking along the bottom of the Edge and the Back Cliff? I guess turn *left* at the end of the track from Reap Lane , then how far?

I might take them along the main edges anyway, show them some real climbing (and maybe start gearing up under one of the 7's...)

Hi Nic. 

There is a descend path with a chain hand rail and steps that brings you down in the gap between Battleship Edge and Backcliff. The start of the descend is slightly south of the original descend path to Edge (which slid away a few years back). A slightly longer walk to the Verandah, which goes pass Backcliff but much leas precarious. You can also check out the easier climbs on the Block (the large slabby block facing Backcliff).

Edit: the Verandah is a bit of a sun trap on warm days.