Descent from Torre Grand: Cima Sud and Cima Ovest

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 ColdAndWet 02 May 2024

I'm interested in understanding the best descents from Cima Sud and Ovest.

I know that some guidebooks are reportedly occasionally misleading, but I'm not looking to criticise. I've read multiple descriptions available in various guidebooks (UK and Italian) and website resources. They are sometimes similar and sometimes somewhat different!

Cima Ovest:

I've descended once and followed the Rockfax description. We descended to the north from a summit chain to a 5m lower ab station and then a 20m ish ab to an unprotected slightly sloped ledge, traversed right (looking out, with no protection) and then a further ab. Can't remember what happened after that. But often wondered if we missed a better ab station to avoid the unprotected sloping ledge. The guidebooks seem to suggest we were correct and the ledge is as expected for the Dolomites. But if there is a safer descent I'd love to hear the details!

Cima Sud:

I've never descended Sud. The guidebooks and web describe a number of options. 1) two or three 20-25m abs starting at the SW corner. 2) a single 50m ab starting to the N. 3) you can walk/scramble first SW and then N down a gully between Nord and Ovest (which I think, but maybe I'm wrong) is the same descent as 1) but 1) abseils the trickier sections.

I'd welcome any experienced advice and detailed (but clear!) descriptions.



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