UKH

Recently tried Crypt route but could not work out the way from the top of the first pitch 

Arrived there where there was a lot of tat for abseil

The routes various options via tunnels 

All the tunnels I tried seems to just end 

On the left was a hole going down.Followed this and thought I might of climbed too high on first pitch. This led to an earlier exit from the chimney.However this only led in a circle back to starting point 

At the back on the right It looked like a blank chimney  with no gear which led to a possible escape via a high hole behind a choke stone.This didn’t look ve to me and was just a chimney not a tunnel 

Not sure you could describe three tunnel options for that.

Can someone assist as will need to return as on my small number of remaining classic rock ticks?

Memory vague. 2nd pitch definitely went up a smooth parallel sided chimney that disappeared into the crag behind chockstones. 

Beyond that, none of the many guidebook descriptions made any sense. We followed a long, diagonally slanting shaft, belly crawling, towards daylight and emerged through a little hole onto the Arch (which is just a big ledge from this perspective).

No headtorch require on a bright, sunny day.

Up the chimney.

Into the hole. Headtorches on.

Along a bit inside, then round and up and across, then thrutch and squeeeeeze out of a narrow hole under the arch.

Belay, bring up your mate, and laugh at their desperate attempts to wriggle to freedom.

Up under the arch, then finish up a short corner-chimney.

Sort the ropes and compare abrasions and contusions.

Maybe nip up the top, then retire to the pub to work on embellishing the tale with additional terror, humorous takes, and derring-do.

Have a look at the photos on here The one titled “going in” shows where the entrance to the “caving” section of the route is- from there the line is obvious as you can just follow the various bits of tat until you reach the rather small exit hole where there is some fixed tat for a belay. From there continue upward to the right hand end of the arch or alternatively a single 60m abseil will get you back to the deck

Did it 4 weeks ago as my final Classic Rock route

The entrance to the caving section is like a horizontal corridor. We followed this inside for a few metres  then thrutched/wriggled up a chimney to a higher level which led back towards the daylight and a view outside (below the chockstone I think). Then back in again and from there a sloping chimney leads back towards the light and you can wriggle through the squeeze (without gear) to emerge back outside above the chockstone (lots of tat here). From there a bit more climbing leads up to the right end of the arch.

This seemed to sort of fit the description in Scottish Rock Climbs but not the 3 options in our Glencoe guide.

Iain

I've done Crypt quite a few times summer and winter.  I did once try all the ways suggested by the guidebook but most don't exist anymore (i suspect they changed at the same time as the tunnel on west chimney collapsed).

climb the first chimney until you can enter the buttress via a slot on the left side.  Theres  a good place to belay just after (and no point in continuing due to rope drag)

step up to the next level (rope hanging from a chockstone above)  keep the hanging rope to your left and climb an improbable groove.  at the top of the groove theres a wee squeeze.  once through this squeeze head to the furthest back groove and squirm up this till you get good foot ledges that lead to a small hole.  Take off your helmet and gear.  Hook a sling over the spike at the edge of the hole and clip your gear to this pushing it through.  Climb through hole.

You are now on a decent ledge under the arch.  climb through the massive hole above to gain the left edge of the top of the arch.  

Cross the arch and continue up the groove above the right hand side of the arch (dont abseil off!  you havent done the route as this is the crux!).  

Follow in a similar line to the top

Edit 

Sorry about that.  

That’s everyone 

looking at the picture “going in” I think I looked at the improbable groove/chimney at the back and bottled it as it didn’t look to have any protection 

Will return for another go. Completed three other classic rock ticks on Skye and in Apple cross

9 more to complete the list

Only just had time to look at the photos.  The "going in" photo is the "improbably groove" I mentioned in my previous description.  Hope its all helped - its a really fun route!