UKH

Any advise, know of local guides that could take 2 of us (Australian Grade only about 12 to 16) to climb sport ( lead) or top rope (trad)  in the areas of Hillwood, Cataract or Ben Lomond near Launceston ( North Tasmania) then onto Organ Pipes and Tasman Peninsula ( South near Hobart) ?  Want to watch others of the famous Totem Pole! Any good climbing community campsites too? Thanks in advance from Jayne 

Hi Jayne

I'd suggest joining the amusingly named local climbing group 'Hobart Frothers' on Facebook where I'm confident someone will be able to help you out.

In terms of campsites the Freycinet campsite is probably your best bet. lots of good climbing on the seacliffs there too. Make sure you do Apline. You won't need a guide to walk to the Totem Pole, its a well marked trail from Fortescue Bay, where there is also a nice campsite.

As you may have noticed, Ben Lomond is remote and will likely be a multi day trip. Organ Pipes much easier to do as a day trip. 

Many thanks really helpful. I will search that FB group.

Worth trying to pick up a copy of Gerry Narcowiczs guidebook to Tas as well, if you don't already have one. Feel free to ask any other questions, I spent a few months climbing on Tasmania, it's great! 

You may well have already looked at it, but this site is excellent for all things Tasmanian climbing:

http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Introduction+to+Tasmani...

There's a lot of info there that's not on thecrag.com and many useful topo pics. But the Frothers will be more up-to-date and likely to get you a faster response.

Hi Jayne, I've lived in Hobart for more than 10 years. In response to your questions:

As a previous poster stated, thesarvo is the most definitive source of info for Tassie climbing (and the guidebook can be downloaded as an app). Thecrag is also helpful and often gets new routes posted up quicker

Hillwood is currently closed to climbers, although the situation is evolving rapidly. For 'friendly' mid grade sport climbing consider Sand River in the south (~1 hour drive from Hobart).

Ben Lomond is a huge plateau - the main climbing areas on the northern escarpment are totally doable in a day from Launceston, the wilder southern escarpment is a bit more of an effort and commitment). There's not a lot on the Ben at your grade range though, and a lot of the routes require a very big rack (think long splitter cracks with the same size all the way up). 

I don't know much about Cataract Gorge. Organ Pipes are ~ 20mins from central Hobart, classics for you would be Fiddlesticks and Chancellors Direct. The better stuff is 18+ though, and there's not much opportunity for top-roping. There are also some good sport routes on the Pipes, the bolting is safe but can be spaced near the top of pitches,.

For good campgrounds, Whitewater Wall at Coles Bay (Freycinet) is certainly up there. There are climbers bothies at both the north and south escarpment of Ben Lomond. Fortescue Bay (on the Tasman Peninsula) is beautiful and a good jumping off point for al lot of the peninsula climbing, but book ahead in the peak season (Dec-March). Also consider Cloudy Bay on Bruny Island, it's a beautiful spot with some great climbing (sport and trad). 

In terms of a guide, contact Garry Phillips:
https://climbingtasmania.com.au/about

The Narkowicz 'Tasmania Select' guide is beautiful and a very worthy inspiration/souvenir. For 'on the crag' use though, thesarvo is pretty much what everyone uses.

The Freycinet campsite holds great memories for me. The wildlife there is very active after dark. We saw 2 varieties of quoll there at close quarters.

You may have read this already, but if not - here's a link to the UKC Tasmania destination article. Hopefully it'll be of help, but if not it has some nice pictures 🙂

I wrote it after returning from what could well have been the best ever climbing trip I've ever been on, which is quite a statement, and not one I use lightly. If I were to move anywhere else in the world, it would be Tasmania.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/destinations/tasmania_-_the_totem_pole+...