chamonix multipitch rock rack

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 camstoppa 07 Aug 2023

What the biggest cam worth carrying on Chamonix multi-pitch?

Also which doubles worth carrying?

And smallest worth carrying?

All for what would you routinely bother to carry up a midgrade trad multipitch route Chamonix (where the guidebook doesn't mention specific gear).  I don't fancy carrying around a sack of maces for decoration only!

 slawrence1001 07 Aug 2023
In reply to camstoppa:

I wouldn't carry anything bigger than a 3 (blue friend) unless the topo calls for it. Micro cams are always useful so no lower limit I would say. You can also get away without doubling up if you just shorten pitches/move together but this is not always possible. 

If I had to double, it would be green and red.

If you want to take nuts I would take a half set of every other size (1, 3, 5 etc.)

Defo take a good few 120 slings.

Post edited at 09:58
OP camstoppa 07 Aug 2023
In reply to slawrence1001:

Fab - thanks!

 Jim blackford 07 Aug 2023
In reply to slawrence1001:

agreed. No larger than big blue unless wide cracks or specific gear is mentioned. Micro cams useful. I generally double up cams on size 2, 0.75 and 0.4 or just all if if I'm scared of the crux pitch 

 slawrence1001 07 Aug 2023
In reply to camstoppa:

I think it is also worth noting that the rack is probably the area where you can sacrifice the most weight when moving alpine style. Obviously don’t take a huge rack, but don’t cut down to the point where you feel like you don’t have enough. It is okay to take a few extra cams and slings that you may not need. 

 John Kelly 08 Aug 2023
In reply to camstoppa:

Pitches are often 50m 


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