In reply to Colin Wells:
Part 3
The outbreak of war was good for the Creagh Dhu, in that it brought work back to the shipyards and associated industries. Climbing equipment was bodged illicitly – tricounis, pitons and crampons – and club members didn’t let the respectability of paid employment allow then to stop behaving in the manner to which they had been accustomed. In 1942 using a hired rowing boat they made a poaching raid across Loch Lomond to keepered ground in search of wild goats but, finding none, shot a couple of sheep instead. The keeper spotted them and alerted the authority. The ensuing waterborne chase across the loch by a launch filled with armed US soldiers from the nearby military base at Luss has gone down as part of the Creagh Dhu legend, not least because the fit climbers managed to out-row the motorised Yanks and escape.
After the war the Creagh Dhu entered a prolonged period of domination when they dominated Scottish climbing. Climbers like John Cunningham, Bill Smith, Pat Walsh, Mick Noon, Bill Rowney, John Cullen and Charlie Vigano were active all over the shop including England and Wales. The Cobbler virtually became the Creagh Dhu’s outdoor climbing gym, and many classic routes date from this creative period such as Smith and McInnes’ 1951 route
Gladiator’s Groove (HVS) and Pat Walsh’s 1954 contribution
Club Crack (HVS), the latter only succumbing after Walsh had taken a whipper on a previous attempt, knocking himself unconscious, but just ‘sleeping it off’, and walking home. From the late '40s onwards, helped by their homespun basecamp of Jacksonville, Dhu members colonised Buachaille Etive Mor, plastering it with hard lines including Scotland’s first E1s,
Gallows Route and
Guerdon Grooves (Cunningham), as well as other classics like
Whortlebury Wall,
Revelation,
Bludger’s Route,
Gallows Route,
Mainbrace Crack etc… It was the Dhu that really developed the Etive Slabs following their discovery by Scots Cambridge undergraduate Eric Langmuir in 1954. In 1957 the Creagh Dhu began the process of lacing the granite with many of the classic hard routes like
Agony, The Claw, Hammer and
Swastika, followed by Cunningham and Noon’s
Long Walk in 1958.
Creagh Dhu members were also making their mark abroad, usually with so little ostentation that no one realised what they were up to except when there was a punch-up. A good example was Dhu member George Shield’s repeat of Lakeland Rock God Arthur Dolphin’s
Kipling Groove (HVS 5a) on Gimmer Crag, a route thought to be among the hardest in the country at the time. Few people realised Shields had done it and for many years Joe Brown was credited with the second ascent. By this stage the Dhu were also making their presence felt in the Alps, sometimes literally, thanks to the famous ‘Battle of Zermatt’ previously alluded to. A more edifying example of club members’ hardy resourcefulness came in a very early attempt to repeat the Matterhorn Nordwand by Chris Lyon and three other members in 1947. They approached the notorious chop route as nonchalantly as if they were off for days ramble across Rannoch Moor, armed with ‘Two lengths of manila rope, ex-postman’s trousers, cut-down gabardine raincoats, a couple of extra sandwiches and a bunnet to carry them in.’ Amazingly, they got halfway up the face before the weather broke, but instead of retreating they reversed to the Zmutt Ridge, ate their sandwiches, and put up a new route up the pinnacles of the Zmutgrat before returning to Zermatt.
In the 1960s star Creagh Dhu members continued the tradition of hard climbs by distinctive ‘characters. These included John MacLean from Anniesland who was known as ‘The White Hope’. A prominent tough guy, MacLean climbed extensively with Marshall and put up many fine routes such as Ben Nevis’s ace multi-pitch E2,
Torro in 1962. MacLean was famous for getting bevvied up and then wandering around saying, 'I need to fight someone.' Apparently he often did. The equally pugnacious Bill Smith was also active on Etive, putting up
The Long Reach (E2), while there was an influx of new talent including Clydebanker Con Higgins, Dumbartoner Ian Nicolson, and Londoner Rab Carrington. Among their hard rock routes were
McLean’s Folly (Carrington) on the Cobbler; and
Apocalypse on the Buachaille (Higgins and Nicolson). All three would also excel in winter with Nicolson brashly confirmed the end of the step-cutting era with his magnificent solos of
Point Five and
Zero Gully in the same day.
Higgins meanwhile would go on to produce for many fine classic hard routes, especially on Ben Nevis, including
Albatross VI, 5,
Burrito's Groove IV, 4 and first recognised Grade VI
Galactic Hitchhiker VI, 5 (all climbed with Mike Geddes in 1978),
Astral Highway VI, 5 (climbed with Alan Kimber) and
Last Day in Purgatory V, 5 in 1978, named because he was about to emigrate to the USA. He returned once more however, to put up the thin and intricate
Journey into Space VII, 5 with Kimber in 1980.
In many ways these characters formed the last generation representing the values and attitudes of the original Creagh Dhu. 'I thought they could be very narrow-minded and full of working-class snobbery,' thought Ken Wilson of the original cast. But by the late 60s the new generation had benefited from university educations and were more tolerant and liberal in their ideas of society. They refrained from spitting when meeting Chris Bonington for example. Carrington had even been born in London. The times they were a changing. When they allowed an architect from Edinburgh into the club in 1987, you knew things would never be the same again…
What they said: 'It was a macho sort of club. If your face didn’t fit you could not join. There were a lot of guys in the Creagh Dhu who weren't really climbers but you had to have other qualities, a sort of character. If you were obnoxious you stood a good chance of getting in.'
George Shields explains the unique entry qualifications for The Dhu