UKH

We’re getting our attic converted (approx 5x5m space into the eaves) and need to think about what heating to get. It will be a relatively low apex (1.9m) but will have full building regs spec insulation.

Total volume would be about 25m^3.

Extending the existing gas radiator circuit would be a bit of a pain and involve ripping up floors to access plumbing in a room downstairs that we wouldn’t have otherwise touched.

The other option would be to install an electric radiator, which is our current plan. The room would be used as an office and guest room so would need heating mainly during the day. 

Can anyone recommend any electric radiators which could suit the space which also has timing controls etc? I have no idea about what different types there are etc.

Also considering it would just be for the one room, would anyone consider more upheaval and putting a normal radiator up there instead? 

Any advice would be welcome.

In reply to James Malloch:

Mum has just bought an apartment with electric radiators that need replacing , so I'm also intrested in any recommendations. 

It might not be that much work. 12 months after I plumbed in  our central heating Mrs J decided she wanted a radiator in the utility room. Moving a bit of carpet and pulling up a bit of floorboard then threading the 10mm plastic pipe wasn't any harder than doing the same with electrical cable. If however you have flooring that isn't easy to move and need  to use 15mm copper pipes it would be a far bigger job 

In reply to James Malloch:

Dimplex q-rad was what I was recommended. Getting them installed this week so can't report back yet!

In reply to James Malloch:

FYI, I don't think a 1.9m ceiling height is compliant for habitable spaces.

In reply to James Malloch:

I would try to connect the gas boiler as you'll be paying significantly less (7p/kWh vs 27p/kWh respectively)

In reply to Fraser:

For a new build I think it is well over 2m, but for an extension or loft conversion there is only  guidance and  it is upto the local inspectors. 

In reply to Fraser:

Yeah we won’t get it classed as a bedroom, but it’ll be fine for an office/kids room etc. Going full building regs other than head height. Just saves us having to move house now we’ve got a little un (and I dont need to get rid of our climbing wall in the spare room…)

In reply to James Malloch:

Electric heating is extraordinarily expensive to run.  I used to have one in the kitchen and it cost the same to run as the entire rest of the gas heating system, so when I needed a heating engineer in for other reasons I got a radiator installed.  All electric radiators are basically 100% efficient so it wouldn't matter what type.

Unless the cost would be absolutely massive of getting the gas system extended, that would be my first priority (maybe just using a small fan heater pointing at the person in the interim).

In reply to Neil Williams:

That’s interesting, thank you. Was the electric on much more than the gas heating due to the room’s insulation/use or anything?

The room next to where the staircase will be is a little spare room which could do with some extra plug sockets adding. It could be worth asking about installing sockets at the same time as the conversion (will cause some disruption to do it properly anyway) and then pull up the carpet and floorboards at the same time for heating.

We will be moving out for the build so the disruption to us wouldn’t be a problem. I’ll ask the builder what he think about it.

In reply to Neil Williams:

I agree.

My first thought , fully insulated low ceiling loft space, was it could get too hot. So ensure adequate ventilation.

Design in wall space for ch radiator and socket / wall space for electric radiator/ heater. Keeps all options open for later/occasional heating if required. 

In reply to RobAJones:

Agree, and as much as I dislike microbore pipes, there's always that option too

Edit: put in a network cable and network socket too (near a power socket) while you're at it, now's the time to do it

In reply to CantClimbTom:

How would we do the Network Socket? We have Fibre coming into the back of the house. Would something need routing from there?

In reply to James Malloch:

I'd get everything done as well as possible now. From experience, a few years down the line, you might be frustrated that you took the easy option, but you won't feel the extra effort was a waste of time.

On the gas v electric cost. My Auntie was paying 40% more to heat her first floor apartment than our total bill for a detached house,.although we do have a woodburner. 

In reply to James Malloch:

It was a quite unbalanced system, so there was one radiator heating the downstairs plus that electric and three upstairs.  So it will have been on most of them time.  However someone upthread has posted the difference in kWh prices between gas and electricity and it's significant - so either way electric is going to cost a lot more in the long term.

In reply to CantClimbTom:

Unless wifi struggles to get up there I can't say I'd bother.  I could cable my house but I've never seen any point in doing so.

In reply to James Malloch: have a think about using a heat mat on the floor , shouldn’t  cost more than an electric radiator to run and will save  wall space of any available flat wall   . Easily run off a 13amp fused spur and often come with a control unit to time it. All depends on what covering  you are putting on the floor   And how much of the floor will be covered with furniture. Could be a very neat  solution  . 
like this :

https://www.porcelainsuperstore.co.uk/products/snug-underfloor-heating-mat-...

In reply to RobAJones:

Ah right, I'd forgotten things are a bit more open to interpretation in England than here in Scotland! Even as an office 1.9m c.h. just wouldn't pass muster.

In reply to James Malloch:

I'd be tempted to go for a mini split air to air heat pump instead, upfront you'd be looking at around £500 for the unit plus install, but you then get cooling and the advantages of heat pump efficiency, which should equal out to 1/3rd to 1/4th the running costs of electric radiators. Something like a Daikin Comfora. 

In reply to James Malloch:

I’ve been reading a bit about infra red heating panels, they seem like a good idea for home office (where a person doesn’t move much) but maybe not for a playroom kids are likely or move around.  

In reply to James Malloch:

We had our loft converted into two bedrooms 20 odd years ago. While it is nice and cosy in winter (we had central heating put in) it does get very hot in the summer, even with two windows up there. We ended up getting a portable A/C unit.

Just something else to consider.

In reply to Neil Williams:

Agreed.

We're in a new-build which came with installed CAT-4/5 from the fibre optic modem (cupboard under stairs) to the lounge. We have the WiFi router in the lounge (CAT-4 cable to TV box) and my wife and I work from home on wireless without any issues.

Very occasionally, when needed (big file transfers to work, or something), I'll plug my laptop direct into the lounge router and work in there.

In reply to LastBoyScout:

You sure you mean cat4?

In reply to James Malloch:

I would do your utmost to exceed the current building regs for insulation. If at all possible. And make sure there are no breaks and no cold bridges. We gutted the upstairs (2 double bedrooms, landing and storage room) in an old stone cottage 6-7 years ago. One of these is now a home office and one a guest bedroom, with a ceiling height similar to your apex. We decided not to run wet radiators into these rooms and instead put a couple of portable oil filled radiators which we have plugged in on smart sockets. However, they basically never go on as they're almost never needed, even in the depths of Scottish winter. My wife and I both work from home and share the office room and there's enough heat generated from body heat, the IT equipment and rising heat from the ground floor. 

In reply to James Malloch:

We heat one of our kids rooms with an electric rad because I haven't finished the underfloor plumbing. Electric ohmic heating of a well insulated, well sealed room even only part time is a significant fraction of our bills!

Extending the CH circuit probably isn't as big a job as you fear, if you'll be using the space when the heating would normally running, I'd get a price on that.

Jk

In reply to James Malloch:

I've put network sockets into almost every room (and whilst doing it ran a pair of satellite leads too). As I'm working on the house it makes moving between rooms easier. From the router there is one high speed ethernet cable going to a 12 port Gigabyte Switch and from there to the rooms, where there is usually a 4 port Gigabyte Switch. All over cat5e cable, but as the runs are short the throughput is still good enough for a house. I ran two cables to the sockets near the router so that there was one for the router link and a general purpose one too, so you don't need to plug into the router.

In reply to James Malloch:

I have not done this myself, so it's mainly conjecture - but if it were me I'd do as one of the other posters have said - go full passivhaus spec for insulation and airtightness, then look at a single room MVHR with heat boost. I suspect this will give you the most room comfort all year round and won't actually need a lot of heat input. 

In reply to James Malloch:

To summerises, guess you have at least 4 options for discreet room electric heating. This is not considering 'system options' like large wet heat pumps or heat batterys which might replace central heating. Some of these solutions are more plug and play than the others.

Air to air heatpump/air conditioner unit. Plenty of firms can fit these, should be cheaper to run as you get more than 100% efficiency, can be used for cooling in summer and deliver heated air quickly. Needs outside unit. 

Electric radiators - does what it says on tin. Expensive to run.

Infrared Panels, can attach anywhere, if directed at a desk can heel warmer for less power than radiators trying to heat all the air in the room. (this will eventually happen, it just warms the spot it's pointed at first)

Underfloor heat mats - nice even temperature, needs power to heat whole room, slow to come up to temp. 

We just added a couple of IR ceiling pannels as an easy way to add discreet heating to our kitchen, (cold spot, no wall space, no radiator,) and living room, to cover time after central heating goes off in the evening. Got some cosmetic returns on Ebay, £100 for 400w unit from a reputable company. My dad loves his air to air units and now has 2.