UKH

Hey,

I've been grappling with carpal tunnel in my right wrist for a few years now but it's recently developed to be near constant pain through the day.

I've had steroid shots from a hand surgeon who's considering surgery as a last resort if the steroids don't work (they haven't.) The surgeon is a climber himself and is concerned that the surgery could affect my climbing through a) reduced pinch strength as the thumb muscles anchor to the carpal ligament and b) pain from the scar tissue. 

I have tried all kinds of exercises/supplements to try mitigate the CTS but I suspect it may be brought on by a historic wrist injury anyway.

I thought that the surgery was nearly complication free (and from reading on UKC/Mountain Project posts seems to be very successful) but his recent points have made me apprehensive despite the surgery being increasingly likely as the CTS is deteriorating my general quality of life.

I'm just wondering if anyone here has had the procedure done and can let me know how/if it's affected their climbing/grip strength? I'm still young (23) so it's an important decision which could affect many years of climbing.

Cheers! 

Had it maybe a year and a half ago after having increasingly on, but on and off, CT problems for a number of years. I'm a decent chunk older than you but I certainly haven't noticed any real difference in strength. Tbh I  *feel* stronger now than before as I'm more able to climb longer and more regularly than before as I have no problems and so have less time off waiting for symptoms to ease. I can't comment as to whether it will/has affected peak potential strength as it's a theoretical thing based on what I could maybe achieve.  

Fwiw, I'd say just get it done. I wish I had earlier. Just my 2p worth so get free to ignore or not. 

Cheers, that's similar to most reports I've read from climbers. I have had similar where it tends to flare up and then subside. Did you get the procedure done using the endoscopic technique or open release and how was your recovery/return to climbing? For most of the times where I have had flare ups I've been very keen to get the surgery since the pain in daily activities can be debilitating for me, so I am definitely leaning towards it as it's unsustainable as it is.

I had both done about 20 years ago and helped me enormously. I did have reduced pinch strength for a few months but that didn’t last!

I had both wrists released by open surgery, and I'm sorry to report mixed results. 

With both of them I really caused problems by using them too roughly in the recovery period. 

I was told to start using them gently and I would be guided/limited by pain. However under very light use I really damaged them causing months of inflammation and pain. I have heard of other similar cases since. As a climber you are simply able to put more force through the system than a normal person-and damage the surgery site-so be very careful and don't lift more than a pint for 6 weeks.

They have improved since then (2years) and are just a little tender and stiff around the scar. CT Symptoms have almost completely gone. However the long lasting inflammation 'caused' my duptyrens contracture to worsen significantly, leading to stiff scarred hands, although I can just about still lay them flat on a table.

My carpel tunnel symptoms were far worse after climbing, especially after trips. With me, I was getting to the point where surgery was really needed.

 But to a younger me, with light symptoms I would say

    "back off a bit, let it settle down. If you have surgery you'll be off climbing hard for 6 months anyways, why not try a couple of months break from the activity that is aggravating it."

Surgery may well be the best path for you but do consider it a last resort. I presume you stretch really well after climbing and have tried night splints. Both worked fairly well for me.

Had carpal tunnel release to left hand around 23 years ago, echo the advice to go very gently for the first 6-8 weeks, but I climbed nearly all of my hardest routes post surgery, so did not affect my level of punterdom in the slightest. Good luck.

Paul

I had an open release about a year and a half ago. I had about a week or two off work completely then took it easy for a bit longer after that. Outside of work I had about 5 weeks off climbing completely and then started easing back in slowish over maybe another 6 weeks or so if memory serves. I was back to climbing at an acceptable level (to me at least) within about 12 weeks. Not peak strength, sure, but enough to go on holiday and feel it wasn't the surgery holding me back. That was a trad holiday though so it might have been different if it was hard sport rp-ing.

By the summer just gone it wasn't something that ever crossed my mind at work or climbing even when trying properly hard (again, for me anyways).

I don't miss the waking up at night, the fizzing fingers or the days where I couldn't hold things properly or at all. I put up with it for 10 years+ hoping it would eff off spontaneously. The doctor told me when I had the cortisone shots it'll most likely only get worse and he was right.  The younger you are the better and quicker it will heal. My advice would be just get it done if it's an option as it's shit when it's gets bad.