UKH

I am planning to try main gully after doing Tryfan instead of my usual bristly ridge scramble i was hoping if anyone could give me an idea the best way to get to it from bwlch Tryfan also how to identify the starting point etc i have Steve Ashton's book as a guide but a bit more info couldn't harm thanks

In reply to LJJ77:

You can contour round under glyder fach nw face from bwlch tryfan to avoid losing unnecessary height, but it's easier to see the start of the route from llyn bochlwd (sp?). As per ashtons book it starts to the left of alphabet slab (huge slab in the shape of an A, very easy to locate from the lake).

After that just follow the gully until it finishes, then pick a route to the top (easy ground). We used a rope for the chockstone move which felt a lot harder than grade 1 (others seem to agree in logbook comment). It's a great route on a fantastic cliff - enjoy

In reply to LJJ77:

As Max has said above, Alphabet Slab is your reference point. It's a good route, but the chockstone is a cheeky little move!

In reply to jezb1:

If you're arriving after lunch time on a fine day expect to meet climbers descending Main Gully after climbing one of the routes on the face. Fairly continuously in use last Wednesday with an ab rope in place over the chockstone section much of the time.

Martin

In reply to Martin Hore:

Thanks for the tips i have read that there is a flake of rock which unlocks the chockstone would you agree also i will be doing it solo without a rope do you think that will be a problem have a look at my logbook as a guide to my level of experience

In reply to LJJ77:

Need to do more grade 2 before doing Main Gully. Even then the chockstone will be a stretch.

In reply to LJJ77:
As a scramble, it's quite unbalanced - as the chockstone is much harder than the rest of it. Otherwise it's worth doing because of its position alone as well as the fact that you summit within a very short distance of the Cantilever. Climbing the chockstone felt like a bit of proper climbing when I did it and, as said, much harder than you'd expect on a Grade 1. It's only a couple of steep moves and most climbers wouldn't think too much of soloing it. I trailed a rope on it and my partner, a competent D - VD climber, made a real meal of following it and needed a tight rope. Hardly an objective test I realise, but perhaps some caution may be advisable?

In reply to LJJ77:

All of the ground below the chockstone is reversible (basically just a steep grassy gully) so if you don't fancy it you can easily retreat. However, bearing in mind your experience I'm not sure it's a good choice to solo. As above its a tricky move and feels quite serious due to the steep gully below and surroundings...

In reply to maxsmith:

Thanks for the advice i am thinking twice about this one now i have put up a post in the lifts and partners section could get lucky but if i do decide to give it a go any tips on the best way to overcome the chockstone only bit i have at the moment is look out for a flake of rock on the left which also means go at it on the left hand side Ashton says that is the easier side

In reply to LJJ77:

I did Main Gully solo on the back of similar experience to you! I found the chockstone hard but managed to wiggle my way up it. I see you did Milestone Gully Approach - I don't think it is any harder than that. And on bristly ridge, the right hand gully that many people take (instead of sinister gully) is of similar difficulty.
It was pretty easy to identify the gully - there were some climbers on the face (?chasm face) just to the left as you looked at it. It looks pretty intimidating - but the chockstone comes early on so you can descend easily if you can't get up it. The rest of the scramble is straight forward.

In reply to RuthW:

Thanks Ruth that's encouraging to hear you say that i was planning to do milestone gully again i found it quite easy but enjoyable got some unfinished business with the mantelshelf last time there was a few people attempting it and we ended up using a leg up to get over it but there was a heck of lot of water on it

In reply to LJJ77:

I would agree with Ruth. Frankly Dave's comment mystifies me... its seems bizarre any competent diff climber would struggle seconding on a rope from above unless they were having a massive off day (maybe he is mistaking the securest effort for flailing... a more delicate apprach may be easier but less able to rectify a slip). I do think it should really be a short grade II section for scramblers, that seems like a I for climbers.

In reply to Offwidth:

That's more good news i have been described as a competent climber and always look for the most difficult route like taking the grade 2 options on the nantlle ridge and Tryfan North ridge but am smart enough to seek advice on any new route especially as i usually go up alone i have been given the way over the chockstone by Gerry on my lifts,partners post thanks for the help offwidth

In reply to LJJ77:

I've seen several references recently to the grading of this route in the Scrambles in Snowdonia guide (and also Bryant's Gully). I added an update note on the Cicerone Press web site some years ago (Main Gully was grade I, now grade II, Bryant's was II, now III) but a reminder here will help those searching UKC in future for info on these routes:

In reply to Steve Ashton:

Well i am looking to do more grade 2 routes Steve so i am pleased its been upgraded, the way round the chockstone i have been given is to go up the slabby ramp on the left of the obstacle then make an easy but exposed step left onto a bounding rib, the ramps footholds aren't great but good handholds to smear up the 5ft of slab before the step would you agree with this

In reply to LJJ77:


Sorry, I can't remember to this degree of detail - I would take the advice of those who have ascended the route more recently. I do know that dry conditions are advisable. The line drains reasonably quickly for a gully, especially at this time of year, but the lichenous rock hereabouts soon becomes slippery after a shower. As others have said, it's fairly straightforward to back off if you don't like the look of it.

In reply to Steve Ashton:

Thanks for the advice Steve and everyone else you have all been a big help lets hope the forecast is right for a dry day tomorrow

In reply to LJJ77: its getting upgraded to a 2 in the new cicerone guide that are redoing the Steve Ashton book of death.

In reply to LJJ77:

I did this route a few weeks back, I enjoyed it. The chockstone was fairly tricky, and felt quite exposed, as the gully below is quite steep. I recall going up then left.

In the new guidebook "North Wales Scrambles" (which is very good) its graded 1+. I think this is a good balance as the rest of the route is fairly easy.

In reply to echo34:

Went up today after a climb up North ridge of Tryfan via milestone gully got over the mantelshelf easy this time even though it was a lot wetter than last time had some company an American called Randy gave me a lift from Capel and i said he could join me as he was unfamiliar with the area he really enjoyed it i would agree main gully is grade 2 but we never had a problems i would say the chockstone was a delicate move but not difficult and a lot of blue sky and sunshine to crown it off thanks for the advice everyone

In reply to Wesley Orvis:

Why do you call it "book of death"?

In reply to Rylstone_Cowboy:

I think certain comments on routes -Esgair Fellen (sp?) on Foel Goch for example "A thoroughly nasty scramble, only to be attempted by experienced climbers and even then they would be wise not to bother" and "lack of escape is the best motivation for continuing" are perhaps why the book has been labelled "the book of death"

Ashton in his forward talks about being "alone" "scared" and "unroped" up some horrible face whilst investigating new routes for the book

In reply to bowls:

Yes I know all that. I've got the book and have been using it for years. I have had countless fantastic days in the Welsh mountains following routes in the book. To me it's more a book of adventure. Yes of course some of the Grade 3 routes in the book are technically difficult and very exposed in places but that's part of the challenge of good quality scrambling. The term "the book of death" seems out of all proportion. Do people really call it that?

In reply to Rylstone_Cowboy:

I think the MRTs call it that because they so often find it clutched tightly in the hands of people they have to rescue.

In reply to Rylstone_Cowboy:

It's been nicknamed that for years, it's just a bit of a joke..

In reply to jezb1:


Yes, I agree ... just the same as Brailsford's AC guide to the Ecrins is called "the book of lies" by those who tried (and failed?!) to use it in anger.

When you are on one of Ashton's grade 3 scrambles (the Wrinkled Tower comes to mind) and you are faced with a particularly ‘exciting’ move - one which makes you have a brief meditation on life and how it might shortly be coming to an end - then the alternative title for his guide may momentarily appear to be quite appropriate!

In reply to jezb1:

I have also heard it referred to as the 'Steve Ashton book of helicopter rescues'... reputation alone was a reason for me to buy it (now I need to use it in anger, but not too much anger!)

In reply to Dave Williams:

Wrinkled tower in my view has no place in a scrambles book. The move where you step round to the left and reach round for a flake you cannot see but is the only really obvious protection/way round is far more committing than moves on several graded climbs i have done!

In reply to bowls:

I saw a solo scrambler tackling the wrinkled tower on Monday unroped as well, we wondered if he had gone astray as he was following us up to milestone gully but we lost sight of him after the mantelshelf we were watching his progress from just above the cannon as he appeared to be struggling a little but a little further up he appeared alongside us ok we were relieved he was ok he took a well earned break once on the North ridge