UKH

Hello all! This is my first post, loved reading the threads for years, finally decided to join in. Anyway…

I recently tackled Forcan Ridge on the saddle and found it to be the hardest scramble I have ever done. I appreciate the conditions weren’t the best (Icy for most of the crest) but I found some of the moves really techy and exposed and the down climb was a bit tasty. I have done some grade 1s in serious winter conditions, a number of grade 2’s and Pinnacle ridge (grade 3) twice, all soloed. As I mentioned, Forcan in my opinion is head and shoulders above them all in regards to difficulty.
 

just wanted to know what other peoples opinion was on this? Cheers all

The forcan ridge is a pretty good example of Scottish grade 2 in my opinion.  The rock type (schist) does mean it can be incredibly slippy if wet and certainly if it was icy it would feel very hard for a summer scramble.  Theres two options to down climb - the groove which is dirty and broken or down the ridge crest which is hard.  People do sometimes abseil down the ridge crest as well.  The length of the route, its exposed nature, the conditions and the rock type may combine to making it feel pretty hard for grade 2.

Cheers Arose - I came down the crest, facing the rock as I’ve always been told is best and always try to do. There was some “where next!?” Moments but I was never crag fast. What’s your opinion on Forcan in relation to the other “famous” Scottish grade 2s? (AE, An Teallach, etc)

It's 2001 since I did the Forcan ridge (in dry autumn conditions) but I don't recall it standing out in terms of difficulty or exposure. I haven't done many Scottish scrambles to compare it to, plenty in the Lakes. I was much more 'impressed' by the little I've done in the Cuillin. I don't know what grade it is but the biggest knock back I've had up there was on the north ridge of Ben Hope. It's only quite short but there was a real stopper move with a terminal drop if you fluffed it. I backed off and went up the easy way.

I've only done it in powdery winter conditions - see below, I'm the one at the front floundering though piles of snow. I think that photo was taken just after I'd stuck my foot through a cornice and set off a fairly decent sized avalanche on the slopes below.

So, I can't really comment on exactly how difficult it should feel. The thing about scrambles, though, is that their difficulty varies dramatically depending on the conditions, and some rock is better in the wet than others. On a dry sunny day you might saunter along something that is terrifying in the wet or under a little ice. Aonach Eagach is a good example - benign in the dry, slippy in the wet and an exciting and long alpine day out in winter.

I remember finding it a bit harder than expected, especially on the second visit. That down climb is intimidating.  Like others, I put it down to the properties of the rock, especially if damp.

An Teallach is a fair bit longer and, if taken direct, possibly a wee bit harder, or at least more sustained. However the rock has more friction  and there are options on the west side to bypass a lot of the major difficulties but still have a very good day out. It is a big day in all senses.

If taking the bypass don't start too high. You should be on a goodish path rather than a scramble. Path or not it deserves respect as falling off to the west isn't recommended.

Great outing.

Too long since I did the aonach eagach to give a useful comment.

Forcan Ridge is easier than both An Teallach and Aonach Eagach IMO. 

It's been a while, but I remember it, both in summer and winter, as being a fairly standard easy-ish scramble with one disproportionately hard and intimidating downclimb.

Slabby schist is much more 'exciting' in slippy conditions that most rock types, though, which may have been what you've noticed.

This photo is epic mate 💪

In dry summer conditions of light wind, being done by a party that is happy to take various bypass options, as others have stated, the Forcan Ridge is not the hardest of big western ridge outings. Having done it in pretty much every conditions imaginable, it does get pretty sporty once conditions start conspiring against you. 

In winter in particular, there may come a point where none of the bypasses are viable and the safe plan is to take every one of the crest difficulties head-on. 

If it is still too easy for you then look in the logbook section (where every version gets three stars) and you will find the winter version "Forcan Ridge, Double Direct  II/III" which is 'just' up the ridge and down the ridge giving 450m vertical and 3.2km. You can take a similar approach in the summer of course. 

Accidents do happen on the Forcan Ridge, including fatalities, but, considering its potential for trouble, these accidents are quite rare. Please wear a helmet since heads can be quite useful and it will be useful for yours to be still in working condition after a fall. Some posters have already mentioned the rock type and there have been some dangerous problems in the past with loose rock. In the 1980s (IIRC) a rock the size and shape of a bus detached from the south side of the ridge and sat there crumbling away for years which tends to indicate that in rather alpine fashion the whole thing is more temporary than you think. The popular ramp up onto the bottom of the ridge on the south side has been a problem area on and off for about a decade with rocks of several hundred kilos detaching at times. Starting the ridge a bit lower down will sometimes be the solution. Another area for special care is the ever-popular south-side (left turn) bypass of the descent of the step west of Squrr nan Forcan. At times, several large rocks have detached near the top and presented a serious hazard to those descending the top part of this bypass. 

Take care. Enjoy. 

I've done all three in benign conditions (in the space of about 3 weeks on my honeymoon!) and I'd agree with this 100%. Obviously they can all be much harder in difficult conditions.

I loved them all, and I have especially fond memories of Aonach Eagach due to it being a spur of the moment decision on account of a weather window closing elsewhere and a surprising one opening for that. It was a joyous romp and was everything I'd imagined it to be. Aah, memories...

Hi Jim, thanks for your feedback mate. We pretty much did the whole ridge direct, one way, sticking to the crest or traversing sections of south face and staying off the northern bypass path. It was slow going as you can imagine! 

I found some of the pinnacles tricky and rather exposed. But, for me personally, if you’re going there to do the scramble, and as long as it’s safe to do so, do it to its full potential. If you was to do that whole ridge via the bypass route have you really done the grade 2 Forcan ridge? I’d assume not. 

When we were heading back after the saddle we passed by the wall on the south side and noticed a lot of the rock fall you mentioned - it had obliterated the wall at some points.