What am I missing from my rack - south downs area

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 JoelPatchitt 18 Jun 2023

I have recently bought the following:

2x DMM 1 cam

1x DMM 0.75 cam

1x WC 2.5 friend

1 BD camelot 2 cam

1-10 WC nut set

4 DMM wall nuts (mixed sizes)

2 Large hexes

What would you say I am missing in this setup? I will be climbing all over the UK but located in the south downs area currently.

 deacondeacon 18 Jun 2023
In reply to JoelPatchitt:

Have you got quickdraws, screwgates, slings & belay plate? With that lot, plus you're existing gear you'll have plenty to get going.

Obviously you'll need a rope, but as you're so close to Southern Sandstone I'd recommend getting a short length of static to make  building lower offs easier.

Get stuck in 🙂

OP JoelPatchitt 18 Jun 2023
In reply to deacondeacon:

Thank you for your advice, this is good news.

I do have 7x quickdraws, 5 or so screwgates, several mixed length slings, mammut belay and a 30m rope.

What would the length of static rope be used for in these lower off scenarios?

 bpmclimb 18 Jun 2023
In reply to JoelPatchitt:

More quickdraws (maybe a few alpine-style), nut key, longer rope.

 PaulJepson 19 Jun 2023
In reply to JoelPatchitt:

A smaller cam or two and a bigger one. I think the dmm .75 is roughly similar to a black diamond 0.5. I usually carry at least down to 0.3 (again bd sizes) and a number 3 (unless it obviously doesn't need it). Your big hexes may cover the larger cam range though.

For grit routes, you have enough draws but if you are wanting to go on longer routes or multi-pitches then you're going to need somewhere in the region of 12 (6 medium, 2 longer, 4 extendable/alpine would be a good set, as an example).

For anything other than grit, I usually double up on wires 1-6 as well. 

Depending on grade, you might want some 'micro' gear as well. People say you don't need these unless you're climbing extremes but I've found them useful on lots of VS climbs. 

If you are just getting into it and are going to be learning the ropes on routes well within your physical ability, you have plenty to get on with. I find that when the routes get harder, I have to stack the odds more in my favour by having an 'ideal' rather than 'adequate' rack but that's why climbers love shiny gear.

 mutt 19 Jun 2023
In reply to JoelPatchitt:

Your local are is southern sandstone so it is worth familiarizing yourself with the top roping equipment required for that. There is a good description in the rockfax guide. 

And if you are starting out on leading your rack is probably good for small routes. That's a good place to start. Others have commented but don't go mad until you are competent. Easier routes will accept a range of protection. 

You'll need your money for petrol anyway!


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