tough 9mm - ish single

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 David Coley 31 Aug 2023

Hi,

I'm looking for a tough thin / light single rope. I currently use a Beal Opera, but need something with a tougher sheath. Happy for a bit more weight, but it needs to survive being dragged around a lot of granite. Any ideas from personal experience. Thanks

 Jon Read 31 Aug 2023
In reply to David Coley:

Edelrid Swift Protect Pro, I would have thought, what with all the aramid.

 galpinos 31 Aug 2023
In reply to Jon Read:

> Edelrid Swift Protect Pro, I would have thought, what with all the aramid.

Agreed Jon. Still nice to handle, but higher impact forces.

OP David Coley 31 Aug 2023
In reply to galpinos:

Sorry to be lazy, but much higher. i.e. higher than a normal fatter single? Thanks

 Jon Read 31 Aug 2023
In reply to David Coley:

Sorry, what do want to be 'higher'? Impact force?

 galpinos 31 Aug 2023
In reply to David Coley:

No-one can touch Michel's magic weave that keeps Beal's impact forces so low but compared to a Volta Guide:

Swift Protect - 9.9kN

Beal Opera - 7.4kN

Petzl Volta Guide (9mm) - 8.5kN

OP David Coley 31 Aug 2023

Dropped the lazy bit. Edelrid site gives I think 9.9kN when used as a single (it says 9.9 / 7.3 / 11.8 kN and I think logic suggests the 9.9 is when tested as a single). Their Heron single which is 9.8mm, so a fatter rope, says 9.3kN. So yes high forces, but possibly not a big jump in value?

I would be using this mainly for easier climbing so high FF unlikely and more likely to be bouncing down a ridge!

Thanks for the input.

 bpmclimb 01 Sep 2023
In reply to David Coley:

I've had a 70m Swift Protect Pro for a while. It feels reassuringly tough, and its performance on Edelrid's own sharp edge test machine is comforting. It's thin in the hand, of course, but that makes it nice and light for the length. The rope was initially waxy in feel and rather prone to twisting, but these things have improved with a bit of use. I've used it with a Gri Gri (newest), WC Pro Guide Lite, and Edelrid Giga Jul with no problems.

In reply to David Coley:

Swift protects are good but go fluffy quickly - they don’t seem to wear out they. they’re also very stiff and hard on the shoulders if using a reverso/pivot.

This can be mitigated by using a Gigi or microtraxion.

I can’t really think of a better option for a tough 9mm single. 9mm singles are by their nature not tough! 

1
In reply to David Coley:

Mammut 9.0 Crag Sender Dry

Triple rated rope with the 48 bobbin sheath construction. Making the rope great to handle and improves wear massively. The dry treatment only adds to the wearability of the sheath. 
 


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