UKH

Apologies for yet another axe thread, but slightly different prerequisites than the others, and I didn’t want to derail them. 

I try to get an ice climbing trip every 2-3 years somewhere like Canada, less commonly here in NZ (I’m a bit soft for the long approaches, dodgy rock and variable conditions.)

I’ve used older Nomics (liked the feel, bit wary of their wobbly head reputation), older Reactors (didn’t really like) Rebels (still have, like them, probably surpassed by newer tools).

I don’t climb very hard, WI 4/5 at the most, but don’t mind paying for a decent tool. Upcoming trip to Alaska this Feb.

Considering the new version Reactors, but also looked at the X-dreams, and some of the grivel tools look nice. Probably over the nomics unless reputation improves regards the head and the hand rests. Fallback option is to use Rebels on this trip, and see what DMM and BD’s new offerings are like.

Thanks

Use your rebels, then sell them the Lara Croft cosplay crowd in the USA to pay for your whole trip!

Of DMM's axes, I prefer the apex for mid grade mixed and ice, and the switch for harder mixed, though it climbs ice fine. Switches are bomber but heavy. I tried X-dreams and I think they perform better than anything else I've tried and they seem to put up with abuse, but then you don't get the bombproof DMM appeal. I find the BD axes I've tried feel a bit different to the others, like they have a different weight distribution which you feel in the swing. Some people think they feel super balanced, but I am not such a fan personally. Modern tools are all pretty good, and everyone will have their favourites.

Second this.

I had Switches and although there was nothing wrong with them as such I didn't love them and sold them after maybe 5 seasons. I got Nomics and they felt like a genuine upgrade. I used the Nomics for about 5 years, fixing heads as required and thought they climbed really well.

I fancied a change so got a pair of X-Dream Alpine at the tail end of last season and immediately loved them. On Sunday I let my mate try them for a pitch while I climbed with his Nomics. I really noticed a difference and didn't particularly enjoy getting reacquainted with the Nomics. Most of that is probably down to having got used to the X-Dreams but they just feel more precise and more secure in marginal placements.

For context I lead mostly mixed rather than ice up to VII.

As others have mentioned, Camp/Cassin X-Dream is really a dream machine. Adjustable, so great on ice or hard mixed. But a single bolt for the handle might be a concern (especially for expeditions or long trips).

New BD Reactor is basically a carbon copy of the X-Dream, but does not have an adjustable handle... So perhaps more robust/long-lasting, but less adjustable (i.e. you can only change the pick angle with different picks). But then again, the single bolt pick fastning on some BDs, like the Reactor, is an obvious potential weak point... I  fact, I had one year major issues with it (bolt was stuck) and in the end destroyed the bolt and the "locking" plate, luckily BD replaced it.

That being said, but climb really well, and were I in the market for a new ice tool, I'd pick the Reactor... but the BD preference is partly because we have other BD tools in the household and the picks are still cross compatible.

The new Edelrid looks also interesting, and seems to have about the same handle/pick angles as X-Dream or Reactor. Perhaps TobyA drops in with a quick comparison, since I saw a few pics of him rocking those.

Thanks everyone for the advice.

Is it the single bolt on the X dream handle that has sometimes failed? It is otherwise appealing. I do like my X-lights.

Do Tomb raider cos players still buy Rebels?! I wasn’t sure if it had drifted into urban mythology. 

Yes, my friend has had one broken (or perhaps now twice). And I do recall reading some other failures. But then again the X-Dream is rather popular tool and  the amount of failures isn't that great (unlike say gen 2 Nomics and wobbly head). So based on the signal to noise -ratio... I would not say that it is something that will break, but it is still possible. That being said, if you're mostly into ice, I think you will not have issues. From what I recall, most that have reported the handle snappin' off, have done so on mixed climbs, so most likely sideways torque has been the culprit. 

I've used the same pair of x dreams for Scottish mixed up to grade VIII for the best part of 8 years. They have been absolutely battered, but the heads and handles are still solid and I'd expect to get many more years out of them. I have never changed the angle of the grip so that may be a factor. To be honest, unless you're tooling on roofs I don't see any reason to adjust the grip to the more aggressive angle.