Rethread hexes

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Hi all, I have got some hexes but they are in need to new slings. Does anyone know the best way to go about this I ideally wanted dynema sling instead of cord. Any advice is appreciate. Thanks 

 beardy mike 21 Sep 2022
In reply to Off his rock-er:

If they were originally done with sewn slings, talk to the manufacturer. Depending on their policy they may be able to resew them. Failing that, talk to Skots Wall gear in the states - https://www.skotswallgear.com/ He may be able to help.

 LastBoyScout 21 Sep 2022
In reply to Off his rock-er:

Have a search - it's been asked a lot and there was a recent thread on similar lines.

If you want sling, its safest to send them off to be properly sewn, the alternative is a tape knot in the sling, but I can't remember if that's recommended in modern skinny slings.

Dyneema cord tied with a triple fishermans is the alternative.

 CantClimbTom 21 Sep 2022
In reply to Off his rock-er:

Have re-done mine 2 years ago.

If they were designed for rope/cord I'd rethread with that. Unless you can get professionally sewn slings in which case they're obviously the winners. Not sure if dynema self tied cord is a good idea unless you have very very small hex on shoe laces (which are probably not a good idea anyway) although a triple fisherman might do it, dynema (etc) is very slippery and maybe more drawbacks than benefit. If we're talking big hex that might be 8mm cord?? So pretty bomb proof anyway in nylon.

Use the largest diam cord that fits correctly but don't go too far and cram/force through something oversized or the bend radius might weaken it's no better than the correct size. 

Personally I use standard accessory cord, double fisherman and this'll get some downvote... but as well as dressing and tightening the knot I insulating tape the 2 tails down.

(actually I found an antique roll of troll identitape in back of an old toolbox which was certified nylon safe, but I reckon it's actually ordinary insulating tape at elevated price)

Hope this helps 

 beardy mike 21 Sep 2022
In reply to CantClimbTom:

Spectra/Dyneema with a triple fishermans is 100% fine. It's what they used for Rocks on Rope when they were a thing. Dyneema sling you need to have sewn by someone who knows how to bartack with the correct thread. And I don't know why you'd get a downvote for using a double fishermans on a standard accessory cord. And you simply don't need the insulation tape - I witnessed a hideous accident as a result of doing so, two broken wrists and a broken back in two places because they clipped between the loose tail and the tape thinking it was clipped in somewhere else...

 CantClimbTom 21 Sep 2022
In reply to beardy mike:

Woah... Clipping the wrong bit? Back.. very nasty, hope they were able to recover.

I wouldn't have thought that was possible or a risk. But then again isn't that what everyone thinks *Before* an accident?

My tails are short and the tape is very close to the knot so not sure if I could get caught like that, but that description is making me consider again,  I'll look at mine again at them (removing it if needed). Thank you 

 beardy mike 21 Sep 2022
In reply to CantClimbTom:

Well she never climbed again. She was very very lucky to live. The crazy think is that her buddy did a 30 foot abseil on the same set up right before she did and got away with it... They had set up a top rope and just clipped the sling around the tree wrong... I actually heard the bones snap I was so close...

 brianjcooper 21 Sep 2022
In reply to beardy mike:

>  because they clipped between the loose tail and the tape thinking it was clipped in somewhere else...

Another reason why I don't like using a stopper not after the figure of eight tie into my harness. (Bowline obviously different).

Had to warn a climber who was about to clip into the rope between the stopper knot and figure of eight as they were not close enough together.  

 vscott 21 Sep 2022
In reply to Off his rock-er: on larger hexes you can use a tape knot in nylon tape (not dyneema) - inside the hex. Thread ends through marching top and bottom hole to tie then adjust to pull knot inside. Gives a result that’s almost as neat as factory sewn. 

 Prof. Outdoors 22 Sep 2022
In reply to Off his rock-er:

Tape for threading hexes.

I use Edelrid Techweb, dyneema covered with polyamide. Sounds ideal but I do find that the tape knot definitely does loosen more than nylon. It needs regular checks as the tails slowly get drawn into the knot. Does the job but caution needed and would not recommend to any fit and forget climber.

https://www.v12outdoor.com/edelrid-12mm-tech-webbing-oasis.html?gclid=EAIaI...

Post edited at 08:53
1
 RobertKett 22 Sep 2022
In reply to Off his rock-er:

If you decide to use cord, Needlesports do properly pre-cut, heat-sealed, lengths. I've rethreaded my old hexes with cord from them; I'm v happy with it. There's good advice, and different options, on their website. Link to the relevent page here:

https://www.needlesports.com/catalogue/department.aspx?node_id=c32632b9-7bc...


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