/ Mammut Genesis or Serenity ropes for trad
looking at getting some half or triple rated ropes what ropes to people recommend between these two for trad? Or any other alternatives, at the moment we are using mammut galaxy 60m.
I own and have used both ropes fairly extensively (all dry treated versions).
In short the triple-rated serenity is a compromise. In order for it to have single rope strength but be skinny enough to pass for a half-rope its sheath is thin and soft. Conversely the sheath on the genesis half ropes (having lower core strength requirements as they're only rated as halfs) is thicker and tougher and they are VERY durable.
My first serenity was an 80m for sport climbing, I think it lasted 4 or 5 trips before getting horribly worn and sketchy looking. My second serenity I've used as a dual duty half/single for a few weeks in the alps and its still going but getting fluffed up quick.
My pair of genesis I've used for loads of alpine, trad and winter since 2013 and they are incredibly tough. Getting very slightly fluffed now but more showing their age in a bit of stiffness.
IMHO the only reason to use the serenity is where weight is an absolute priority (and you need the option to use it as a single), because the durability is a big downside. If you're looking for workhorse half ropes that will last well and give you confidence then the genesis are excellent. If you get the dry treated version you can use them for anything.
I've not owned the Serenity but the Genesis are still my favourite ropes I've owned for trad. I'd happily buy them again.
Thanks for the information good that you have used both ropes so that you can compare them
I'd echo the advice above. I have the mammut phoenixes (8mm halfs) and they have lasted much better than my 9mm triple beal joker.
I see triple ropes as a "special occasion" rope where you really need the flexibility. It would cost a fortune to use them all the time and 2 triples for trad (or a doubled over triple) will usually be heavier, too.
That said, I do like being able to switch between using it as a half (doubled over) and a single on the grit. I don't think it will last long used like this though. I'd buy a sturdier single for that purpose in the future (short outcrop cragging).
I can't really comment properly on the durability of the new serenity as I have the old version which was slightly fatter. That said I used it really really extensively over the course of maybe 5-6 years for just about every type of climbing. I still take it out sometimes as it's such a versatile rope. I used it for 3 weeks climbing in Tuolumne meadows and Yosemite, long multipitch trad in the Dolomites, Ice climbing in scotland and on water ice. I'd not say it's particularly fluffy considering the use it's had.
also have a Genesis and it's a very robust workhorse rope. Maybe not the lightest but if you want a double rope that will last you'll not go far wrong. For me the versatily of not having to use a double rope if I don't want to was a real winner. But its horses for courses I guess. Depends on how you want to use it...
On Saturday 6th July Es Tresidder set a new record for the Ramsay Round, the classic 58 mile challenge taking in 24 west highland peaks. We contacted him to find out how the day went...