UKH

Hi all,

Looking to buy some new hexes and trying to decide between the DMM and the WC ones. For context I’m based in the Peak District and mainly climb gritstone and limestone.

To anyone who has used either of these could you let me know your experiences with them and how you’ve got on, which one you prefer and why 
 

many thanks 🙌

https://dmmwales.com/warranty-returns-servicing-repairs

DMM offer a re-slinging service, AFAIK... Wild Country don't. Since they're so similar otherwise, I think that's the decider and you should go: DMM 

I only use the larger sizes (5 and above) and prefer the WC hexcentrics, but when I looked into it the DMM ones have a slightly better size range (less nuts for same size range).

But there's nothing in it so probably go on best price

See which you can get cheaper? Both work well. There's also nothing wrong with mixing and matching.

This is huge and may prove to be the deciding factor for me. Thanks!

I prefer the torque nuts, mainly due to the extendability of the slings, which is useful when the placements are deep inside cracks such as those found on the grit.

The DMM ones are more effective cowbells (noisier) if that makes a difference either way... (although you can fit the smaller ones within the larger ones to mitigate this)

I mostly only use them in winter, but tend to carry a full set of WC for mixed routes, particularly in the Cairngorms, where I think I'll likely place more of them. If it's more ice then I'll carry my partner's DMM set, as there's less of them for a comparable size range.

The smaller WC sizes can be very useful at times and sometimes work better than a big wire, DMM don't go as small.

Obviously not directly comparable to Peak grit, but for me it's down to how many you have at your disposal per set. If you use them a lot then maybe WC, if you're carrying them in addition to a set of cams as some extra options for wide cracks then maybe DMM.

I think maybe I find the torque nuts slightly easier to get a good camming placement, but I wouldn't say that definitively; others may disagree anyway.

As with any pro they all work well if placed well so it's kinda personal preference really. Cost and availability of reslinging etc are possibly bigger deciding factors 

The extending slings on the DMM ones are very annoying / pain in the arse to use, particularly as a second. That much so that I pretty much stopped using that feature. Having used both, the size range of the Wild Country ones are better for Gritstone in my personal view. 

Hex discussions come up regularly on here, so worth searching for old threads , though normally most relevant points are discussed each time.

My preference is original unanodised rockcentrics ( the flared taper goes to other way ) but slung on dynema cord.  I tie the loops in slightly varying lengths to avoid cowbell effect.

Needlesports have precut 1.1 m length for 4.40.

Perhaps try a couple of those then buy some slightly different lengths for a set of secondhand nuts.

 ( If you tie and  tighten the triple fisherman knots properly do not expect to be able  to untie  them again.)

I own both and I personally prefer the DMM ones. The extensible sling is great, and they have a shape that cams a lot more aggressively. 

Black Diamond hexes on wire.

Prefer the DMM as they don't dangle as far down. I also find that the DMM ones tend to fit a little better in this sort of placement: 

https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/wp-content/images/trad/hexes/how-to-use-climb...

Cowbell noise! I still mostly have Camp ones (on 3rd restring), but you're right, the thin wall of the DMM make the best cowbells

Thanks everybody!

Only ever used the DMM ones, but I really like them. I love that they're UK made and can be reslung. I find the extentable sling a really good feature, others clearly don't as above! I also quite like the cowbell noise, it just puts me in a trad climbing* mood. I seem to be able to place the green DMM hex on basically everything that I've ever climbed!

*Low grade punter of course.

DMM opened up the holes after the inital release of the Torque Nuts so they're a lot easier to extend and reset. Mine are pretty easy to do so. For cowbell noises the red fits inside the blue and the green inside the yellow (with a bit of jamming).

I believe DMM accidentally tuned the Torque Nuts to a set of stacked tritones, which is why they can even be heard in the underworld.

lol I know what you mean about the cowbell noise - I like it too!

DMM hexes on wire are the business. I couldn't go back to using ones on tape. 

I've used both and my preference is definitely for the WC hexes.  I find the simpler shape is generally easier and more intuitive to place.

I was about to claim credit for that, but getting old i misremembered it - https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/climbing/protection/dmm_torque_nuts-2112 in my review I didn't actually find it an issue, rather it was the other way round with the holes in the Offsets. In my review I noted the wire went through the nut too easily making it tricky to get them out. They narrowed the hole so the wire was snugger in the nut. https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/climbing/protection/dmm_alloy_offsets-1066