UKH

I have a few peices of climbing hardware (crabs etc), that are needing some lubrication to ease their action.

First instinct would be just to WD40 them, but after reading numerous articles about rope and sling failure caused by chemicals (solvents, acids etc), is it wise you use just any form of lubricant on these pieces of hardware that will come in contact with my rope?

Any thoughts on what should i use to lubricate the hardware, that is safe to use with ropes?

In reply to rusty_nails:

Just WD40 them making sure none of it goes on any slings or ropes, wait for it to dry and then just wipe off any excess.

In reply to rusty_nails:

silicone spray. Doesn't pick up any greasy mess like WD40 allegedly does, and is fine around ropes.

In reply to rusty_nails: use some chainsaw oil. but only a tiny bit. its really sticky so it lubricates in small ammounts.

Will

In reply to rusty_nails:


The Wild Country web site says that WD40 is safe.

http://www.wildcountry.co.uk/AboutUs/CustomerServices/Repairs/

"Stuck Cams - Most sticking and Friend not working can be solved by the use
of WD40 - this is a fantastic material as it works to free up stuck cams but
will not damage Nylon or Dyneema on the slings."

In reply to plexiglass_nick:

where did you get this information?

In reply to rusty_nails: I prefer to use a lubricant in a bottle with a dropper applicator, rather than a spray like WD40, because this makes it easier to keep the lube where you want it ie on the point of relative movement, and keep it off things like slings. I use one or other of the Finish Line bike lubes like this http://www.edinburgh-bicycle.co.uk/catalogue/detail.cfm?ID=20746 or this http://www.edinburgh-bicycle.co.uk/catalogue/detail.cfm?ID=18945 (depending usually on which I have immediately to hand). They should be readily available from your friendly local bike shop. I put a drop on the krab hinge, or a few drops on a cam axle, work the mechanism a few times then leave it for a minute or two, work the mechanism again and then wipe any excess off. This limits the risk of contaminating any textile components.

The other thing to bear in mind is, gear manufacturers know damn well that krabs and cams are used with nylon and dyneema ropes and slings. If there really was a special procedure or product required to lube their gear in order to keep the textile components safe, don't you think they'd try to sell it to you? (I don't count the Metolius cam lube which is just the Finish Line bike lube with a different label on it.)

There have also been innumerable previous threads on this topic which can be retrieved using the search facility - have a look at some of these: http://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/info/search.php?forum=0&dates=1&na...

In reply to rusty_nails:

Thanks to all those that replied. Glad that wild country are ok in relation to WD40 and ropes, but i will do my best to void them coming in significant contact.

many thanks

In reply to rusty_nails:

I use a drop of vegetable oil on my cams, it works a treat. Just drop onto the springs and mop up the excess with a cotton bud. Hey Presto!

In reply to rusty_nails:

When buying my first screwgate in Rock and Sun the salesman said I should clean and oil it with, 'GUN OIL, if you've got any lying around?'

Yeah, actually just after I cleaned the magnum and before I regrease the action on my sawn-off.

Gun oil I ask you?

Message ends.

In reply to tommyzero:

Well, outdoor sports and outdoor pursuits do tend to be close bedfellows...

In reply to CurlyStevo:

It's recommended as lubricant for climbing gear by, among others, Black Diamond:

"Once dry, apply your favorite graphite- or silicone-based lubricant with a long stem applicator."

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/gear/detail/c3_detail.php


Silicone lubricants in general are solvent-free (worth checking this) and quoted as suitible for use on Nylon:

"HP Silicone Spray are effective on the following materials: ABS, Nylon, Polypropylene, PPO, Rubber, Polystyrene, Polycarbonate, ABS, Acetal, Polyester, Polysufone, Polyethylene."

http://www.clearcoproducts.com/non-flammable.html

which is good enough for me, really, although use at your own risk and as usual don't be trusting your life to something some guy said on the internet.

In reply to rusty_nails:

I got nervous about using any oil for exactly the same resons so I use Metolius cam lube. Goes on wet and works dry. Needlesports have it.

In reply to rusty_nails: I use some dry chain lube for mountain bikes, i belive its solvent free. Probably similar stuff to the cam lube, but I happened to have the bike stuff already.

Rich

In reply to rusty_nails: I personally wouldnt use WD40. I an aircraft engineer, and we have been specifically banned from using WD40, or similar solvents.
This is because although they have initial lubrication properties, they offer little or no protection to oxidisation (rusting), and in some cases speed up the process.

In other words WD40 is not a long term solution, but if a cam is sticking, use WD40 to loosen it off, then wipe off the excess and apply a drop of 3-in-1 or gearbox oil to the joints, or even better just get rid of the WD40. Gearbox oil should not have any effect on the rope, as there should be no excess. I am also led to believe that the only dissimilar metal used in cams is deep in the joint, so this in reality is where u want the oil, so work it in baby!

In reply to rusty_nails:
Worst common substance for ropes is urea (piss). WD40 not a problem and you should be wiping everything down with a rag or tissue anyway.

As stated above, many spray products offer no lasting lubrication. Releasing sprays tend dry things up. WD40 is NOT a releasing spray, its just a pretty mediocre lubricant that is said to have been for wiping down firearms.

Chain lubes tend to be sticky and are retained on the item in wet conditions. I do not recommend them though as the solvent/carrier can be fairly agressive.

WD40 is a reasonable solution. It will help you sort out corrosion, dirt and sticking gates. Anything that cant be sorted by that approach may need a retirement plan.


(One thing I have thought of but not used yet is the Nikwax waterproofing stuff. Slippery as hell and you just cant get it off anything! Some research needed there. Could end up with a Krab so slippery that you cant keep hold of it!!!)

In reply to rusty_nails:

WD40 is essentially a water displacement (WD) fluid with residual lubrication and corrosion prevention qualities for very short periods. If left in place it will attract dirt and grit, as will Chainsaw oil, gear oil, vegetable oil etc. Personally, I use electrical cleaner to clean gear as this degreases, removes all grit and leaves no residue then a squirt of silicone spray or PTFE dry film spray as this leaves a dry non adhesive coating of soild lubricant (dont use graphite or molybdenum disulphide dry lubricany though - messy!). But as I work for a lubricant manufacturer I can access some things easily.

In reply to rusty_nails:
LIDL doing silsone spray this week if you want to try !! ??

In reply to rusty_nails: GT85 works fine for me, I don't put enough on to make it so greasy that it gets onto the slings and rope.

Things that spend alot of time in storage like screws, bigger krabs and pulleys get a good coating though, then if needed a wipe down before use.