UKH

Looking for some recommendations for a boot for a summer climb of the Matterhorn (Hornli Ridge). 

Weight is priority. It needs to be a boot that is sturdy enough for mixed use (i.e. with crampons on rock) but not too rigid for the rock sections. 

Been looking at the Scarpa Ribelle Lights, La Sportiva Aequilibrium Speed GTX and La Sportiva Trango Tower. 

Interested to hear your recommendations. 

If conditions are good you would only be wearing crampons near the top (after the shoulder). If you need crampons below that then the going would be way too slow for most to consider an ascent.

So I would focus on the rock climbing aspect of footwear...

Who chooses footwear for a single alpine climb though? What else might you want to do in the future?

Those 3 models are all B2, which means they will have a very stiff sole. If you want more flexibility you should look at B1 models; these however will only take C1 crampons. These are always the strap-on type rather than the step-in ones. B1 + C1 should be up to anything you´ll encounter on the Hörnli ridge.

For a very light and dextrous B2, I use Hanwag Makra Combi. Only just B2 with a welt on the back if you need it. The durability is naff, they run cold and the Goretex linings are trashed after 2 wears. So why is this boot good? Because it climbs and scrambles better than any of the others I've used. Feels like trainers.

Not sure about the others but the Ribelle lites, although rated B2, are quite flexible and I needed a flex bar on crampons for a size 46 boot. I’d rate them somewhere between a B1/B2 in terms of flexibility.

I’ve found them perfect for summer alpine easy mixed routes. They climb well, are light and stiff enough for short sections of steep snow that requires front pointing. I’d say they are perfect for the Hornli ridge. 

Wellington 

6 years ago I got asked to review these http://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.com/2017/12/scarpa-zodiac-tech-gtx-review... for UKC. Oddly Scarpa took them out of their UK line up not long after, this seemed a huge shame as they are 1) bloody great 2) really light and 3) not stupidly expensive. I still use them now and they are still going strong - last used back in March on a very snowy round of E Ridge of Nethermost Pike and down Striding Edge. I was in crampons for a good few kms of walking and scrambling that day. I reckon they'd be great for the Alps and fantastically Scarpa UK are selling them again here. https://www.scarpa.co.uk/mountain-boots/zodiac-tech-gtx/ Well worth considering. 

Ah, but do you go for the classic Dunlop? Or a more up market Muck boot? The world of wellington buying is very complicated!

Go for Argyll rather than the classic Hunter. It's an all rubber boot that is flexible (good for smearing) and doubles as a caving boot. Also stops you looking like an upper middle class Glasto-w@nker.

I've got a pair of the older Ribelle Tech, usual provisos on fit apply but for me they're like trainers to walk in, fantastic on rock [better than approach shoes with the stiffer edge] and good with crampons. Always thought they'd be perfect with a means to tighten up the ankle more when needed, they seem to have achieved that with the new version: https://www.scarpa.co.uk/mountain-boots/ribelle-tech-3-hd/

Looks like you could edge in it too! Good shout 😀 It will go nicely with my Welly crampons too!

+1 for Zodiac Tech. They are great, light and durable, walk well, good shape toe box (for a mountain boot). 
 

No idea why they stopped selling them in the UK as they were available in Europe and USA the whole time. Nice that they are back though. They have a less baggy fit than the ribelle series and are lighter 

The little gaiter thing at the back works well to keep debris and snow out too

+2 for Zodiac Tech. I'm on my second pair, and have used them for plenty of big Swiss 4k AD's, inc. the Hornli a couple of times. They climb rock really well, and can be used with C2 crampons in 'flexible' mode, ie. with flexible bar, or only using one of the front two slots. Not warm, so no good if you get cold feet, or for cold conditions. Useless for any front pointing. Otherwise, a great boot for climbing rocky alpine ridges.

Used my Ribelle lite for Italian side couple summers ago and I'd say they're a great fit. Decent rock climbing ability, light and ok for crampons, as long as you're not expecting extended front pointing.

When you look around in the Alps on mostly rock routes, half the guides have either this, or even the Ribelle tech.

Thanks for the good advice all.