UKH

Has anyone used the blue ice aero light screw and had an issue with the plastic handle pulling off when trying to place a screw? I had this issue this weekend and made the screw very difficult to place, especially on steeper sections when a quick placement was welcome. 
 

Rick 

Well, my friend had his crank handle break in Artic Norway not too long  ago (first time being used).

Can't even remember what broke, it was still usable but not fully functional. I do recall he reclamated on it.

But then again, I recall also reading (and even seeing) people brake the crack handles on Laser Lights and the Ultralight Expresses... I guess this boils down to the fact, that when you start to go "too" light, things start to break.

Common problem and happened to a friend not so long ago. On two screws on their first outing.

Apparently the reason is that the metal stopper holding the winding knob is epoxied in, but they method in which they did this originally meant that the epoxy didn't cover the stub of the crank handle well enough.*

This should be remedied with the next batch of screws.

Interestingly, the attachment of the knob looks similar to that on the BD screws but haven't heard of any issues there.

I saw an angry instagram post from an old climbing acquaintance in Finland who broke his straight - it might be the same person as HeMa mentions, can't remember who it was, although I thought he was climbing in Finland while HeMa mentions Norway. But, yes, this seems to be a big problem with the design.

Figured I would drop this here for anyone interested. Had a good play with the BI screws at a recent ice climbing festival and here's some more things noted:

• Usual reports of being difficult to place in warmer ice.
• More broken winding knobs.
• The wiregate handle bends significantly if forced during the last few turns. Can be bent back but this will probably result in failure eventually.
• The tube is extremely delicate so do not pack these with any steel screws, one screw ended up with the imprint of another screws thread (as a series of small gashes) along the length of its tube where they had been packed together.

Thanks for the detail on the BI screws. 

Did they have any of the new yet to be released fully stainless steel BI screws at the festival? They've called them the aero and look to be released later in June according to the website. Not as light as their aero lite but still a lot lighter than other stainless steel screws. Was thinking about buying a couple of the aero lite screws, but thinking it might be worth waiting for the fully stainless steel ones instead? Or would recommend any other screws instead? 

After a trip last week, I'm looking to add in a few screws with winding handles to my rack. Currently climbing on DMM revolutions, which bite well, but I'd appreciate a winding handle on steeper ice! 

We didn't have Blue Ice there per se. more lots of gear as prizes from the local shop. No steel version has arrived here yet unfortunately. My observations above stem from playing around with friends/ the locals screws as most people have already purchased them. We did however have CAMP as a sponsor and their screws are actually worth a look.

If you were with the guys from the Gwent then I have seen some pics of your revolutions in action. Gave me nightmarish flashbacks to mine I used years ago, so can entirely understand your desire to upgrade. Tho I will say they are a very nice screw!

For a recommendation I would argue that the Petzl screws are probably still the best way to go, yes they have their issues but in 5 seasons of use I've never really had that much of a problem and would say they are certainly the more reliable aluminium screw out there. The floppy handle issue can easily be fixed with a hammer and a punch. I can't comment on the newer three tooth design and whether there are any benefits tho. In the future I will likely buy Petzl again but with a mix of alu and steel.

Whilst light is a nice concept, an entire rack of BD steel screws never really slowed me down so I'd rather save weight elsewhere on my rack than invest in protective gear that has a risk of breakage in use. I will admit however to having taken a casual interest in the Kailas Swift which have actually received very good feedback. They have had rare issues (similar to the petzl tube cracking) that is apparently being remedied, so if you're feeling exotic they may be worth keeping an eye out for if they re-release them.

 

That makes sense! I had spotted the camp screws and they do look another good option. There's a lot to choose from at the minute, especially with grivel about to release their new screws the shadow and the helium. 

I was out with the guys from Gwent! I can't say I'm looking to get rid of them all, they are good for anchors and when you've got a good stance. So 4/6 new ones I think. 

Thanks, the petzl ones to seem to be the most proven alu/steel ones out there at the minute. Definitely agree on not comprising on performance/durability over lightness. The Kailas ones do look interesting!

I think I'll keep an eye on feedback on ice screws across the board for the next few months and then make a decision once all the new ones have been released and had enough time to be properly used/abused... 

Cheers!