UKH

In a similar vein to my other post, what is on the market now for a climber's emergency-use-only alpine waterproof? the last UKC group test would suggest rab flashpoint or marmot essence but neither of these appear to be sold any more.

I've just bought an OMM Halo for an alpine walking emergency waterproof. I haven't actually received it yet, but it looks to be in the same weight category as the Flashpoint and might be worth a look?

I imagine that durability will be an issue if actually climbing in it, but I'm sure you've already  considered that.

If you’re normally wearing a softshell, it’s worth having a look at the Rab Kinetic Alpine. I’ve used it as both softshell and waterproof in the Alps, so reduced the need for a jacket in the sack. They weigh around 400g. They are very breathable (compared to a waterproof) and have an HH of 10000 which I’ve found to be fine for the Alps in summer, though not for a full-on Scottish hoodie. The fabric is soft and very comfortable. Worth considering.

I have a cheapie Decathlon jacket aimed at runners that goes in the bottom of my rucksack on a good forecast where I'm not expecting to use it. 240g and works if I'm caught out in the odd heavy shower.

This one looks similar, though not the exact same one I bought a few years ago: https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/men-s-trail-running-waterproof-rain-long-slee...

But it's only just over 100g lighter than my "heavy duty" Arcteryx Beta. Or to put in another way, twice the weight and half the price of an OMM Halo

I have a cheapie Decathlon jacket aimed at runners that goes in the bottom of my rucksack on a good forecast where I'm not expecting to use it. 240g and works if I'm caught out in the odd heavy shower.

This one looks similar, though not the exact same one I bought a few years ago: https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/men-s-trail-running-waterproof-rain-long-slee...

But it's only just over 100g lighter than my "heavy duty" Arcteryx Beta. or to put it another way: twice the weight but half the price of an OMM Halo

Looks nice though the flashpoint is actually about 50% heavier than that. Based in comments on the group test I'd wonder whether 105g is going too light for climbing, even just for emergencies.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/clothing/waterproofs/lightweight_waterproof...

For alpine 'light is right'. I have a decathlon cheapy that is waterproof but non breathable. Perfect for that half hour downpour and weighs 100g. If you need to wear something breathable for a long time in the wet, then you've made a mistake - you should be in the valley drinking beer.

Something that works if you get caught out..? For example-

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/men-s-mountaineering-waterproof-jacket-alpini...

Patagonia Storm 10 could be worth a look. I have the precursor M10 which is a smock and even lighter and it's great. Gossamer though.

Trick is finding one that's packable and light with a helmet compatible hood.

What about this?

https://www.blizzardsurvival.com/shop/blizzard-2-layer-active-range-surviva...

I rate the Alpkit Gravitas for that sort of thing:

https://alpkit.com/products/gravitas-mens

That's not lightweight. I already have a 450g waterproof!

I looked up decathlon cheapies and wondered if they were really that waterproof. Last one I saw had stated hydrostatic head of around 2000 rather than the usual 10-20000?

Interesting, good to know it works for you. The UKC reviewer disagreed and very emphatically thought it wasn't for climbing :-/

Something like this, at under 100g

https://rab.equipment/uk/mens-cinder-phantom-waterproof-jacket

I've finally had it in my hands, and there's no way on Earth that I would plan to go climbing in it. But as an absolute emergency layer in the Alps, maybe? It's already gone really quite pear-shaped if you're being rained on up high I'd say, so maybe the trade-off is worth it?

People make mistakes, forecasts can be wrong, shit happens. People die.

Agreed Robert, it's happening to six of my friends

...but in my opinion a mistake is less likely to turn into a tragedy if you are moving quickly, not carrying too much stuff, and don't end up in the wrong place at the wrong time